Visit one of the most beautiful villages in Provence - Les Baux de Provence - and discover the wines of Chateau Romanin, a top biodynamic winery with a unique architecture and history! 

If you’ve been to Provence before, I’m sure you’ll agree with us that it’s a pretty special place! When most people think about Provence, it's the well-known coastal resorts, lavender fields, Provencal rose wine, but also the famous hilltop, ‘perched’ villages which spring to mind. 

Provence is a dream place to visit if you love stepping back in time and wandering through stunning, fortified villages, perched precariously on mountain sides, with amazing views, tree-lined squares and quaint, narrow, cobble-filled streets. There are many of them - but perhaps the most famous of all is Les Baux de Provence - which boasts the title ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’!

We decided to visit Les Baux de Provence to see if it lived up to its claim to fame and to spend time exploring the small Provençal wine region with the same name. 

Read below how we got on and what we discovered!

Where is Les Baux de Provence?

The commune of Les Baux de Provence is situated in the département of Bouches du Rhône in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southern France, in the Alpilles mountains, said to be the most ‘authentic’ part of Provence. This stunning hilltop village sits perched on a rocky plateau, some 250m above sea level, which gives the village its name - ‘Bau’ is an old Provençal word for ‘rocky escarpment’.

The famous Roman cities of Arles and Avignon are located either side of the Alpilles, with Arles just 15km away from Les Baux de Provence and Avignon, 25km.

Bouches du Rhône

Bouches du Rhône lies in the south-west of Provence and is a fabulous region to visit, because it’s a region of such contrasts. You can enjoy the stunning fortified, hilltop villages, with Les Baux de Provence being the jewel in the crown, but also the mountains, not only the Alpilles mountain range, but the Sainte Baume and the Sainte Victoire mountain ranges too, the ancient Roman cities, the elegant town of Aix-en-Provence, the coastal port of Marseilles and of course the incredible nature reserve, ‘la Camargue’. 

This is where you can apparently find ‘all of the splendours of Provence represented’!

Les Baux de Provence wine appellation 

The Provence wine appellation ‘Les Baux de Provence’ ​​is home to some great wines - of all colours. What makes this appellation stand out is that it requires all wines to be made from grapes grown in 100% organic vineyards, with the majority of wines made via organic or biodynamic processes.  The warm, dry climate here helps facilitate organic farming, with low risk of rot and disease.

The ‘Les Baux de Provence’ appellation extends from the Rhône delta in the south to the ancient Papal city of Avignon in the north and the 2 main wine villages are Les Baux de Provence and St Rémy de Provence.   

Les Baux de Provence wines

Although classified as a Provence wine region and culturally very Provençal, Les Baux de Provence wines are also very typical of southern Rhône wines. This is hardly surprising considering they are neighbouring wine regions and their vineyards are warmed by the same warm, Mediterranean climate and buffeted by the same mistral winds.

Red and rosé wines are predominant in Les Baux de Provence. The main red wine grapes are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre and the classic ‘Baux’ red wine blend is deep red in colour, with notes of blackberries, herbs and violets. The traditional Provençal varieties Carignan and Counoise may constitute up to 30 percent of the blend. Cinsault grapes are also used for the rosés.

In more recent years, a growing proportion of Baux de Provence white wines are produced (although still small quantities compared to the reds and rosés), based mainly on Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Rolle (Vermentino), with some Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Marsanne.

Our visit to the wine estate of Château Romanin

Whilst visiting the wine region of Les Baux de Provence, we were keen to find a wine estate which was typical of the region, but also had something to offer which was a bit unique. We found that in Château Romanin. We decided to visit Château Romanin and then continue on to the famous village of Les Baux de Provence to see if the claims of being one of the most beautiful villages in France, had any substance!

About Château Romanin - a remarkable past

Reading up about Château Romanin ahead of our visit we were intrigued by its description as a ‘cathedral winery’, its historical connection with the Knights Templars and the fact it has been using biodynamic practices since 1988!

As we drove up the track to Château Romanin, just outside the wine village of St Rémy de Provence, you couldn’t help but be in awe of the dramatic scenery unfolding in front of us! 

The 250 hectare estate lies on the northern slope of the impressive Alpilles mountains, with 58 hectares of vineyards, 5 hectares of olive trees and 3 hectares of almond trees. The domaine is located on craggy rocks on the mountain slope and overlooked by the remarkable ruins of a 13th century Knights Templars château.

We could tell straight away that this is a special place, almost mystical.

The history of the domaine stretches as far back as 350BC, when in Greek times the vineyards produced a wine known as ‘wine of Theopolis’. Vines were also farmed here in Roman times, when the first Romanin fort was built to protect the estate. The 13th century château was built according to key mystical beliefs, by a brotherhood of the Knights Templars and its location was considered sacred. Read more about the domaine’s very special history here. 

The estate was purchased in 2006 by Anne-Marie and Jean-Louis Charmolüe, who instantly fell in love with the estate and its remarkable history, recognising the incredible opportunity to establish a special winery here, producing top-class wines and also producing amazing olive oils. Sadly Jean-Louis Charmolüe, previously a very successful Bordeaux winemaker, passed away in 2018, but his wife, Anne-Marie, remains committed to carrying out his legacy at Château Romanin.

Château Romanin wines 

Today the estate produces 45% red wines, 40% rosés and 15% whites, based on the typical regional grape varieties (see above). 

The range of wines includes the Château Romanin ‘Grand Vins’ - red, white and rosé, ‘La Chapelle’ - a red wine made from the estate’s young vines and ‘Le Coeur’ - a very special red blend, limited production, from the best parcels of land - all AOP Les Baux de Provence.

Château Romanin also produces a range of white, red and rosé wines, called ‘Romanin’, fresh, every-day drinking wines, AOP Alpilles.  

Château Romanin produces an excellent brandy, Marc du Provence and a range of superb olive oils, AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence, from their estate olive groves.

Biodynamic practices

The motto of the domaine is ‘fruit of the earth, the sun and the moon’, reflecting its incredible history, but also the 100% commitment to a biodynamic approach to making wine, to create the most natural and finest expression of the terroir.

All of the red wines are certified according to strict ‘Demeter’ and ‘Biodyvan’ rules and just ‘Biodyvan’ for the rosés and whites.

Despite the force of the Mediterranean heat, the wines are able to achieve a great balance of acidity, alcohol and freshness. The stoney soils store the heat during the day and return it to the vines at night and the Mistral Wind helps to cool the vines. 

Our guided tour and wine tasting

We booked a guided tour and wine tasting at Château Romanin - see here for the tasting and tour options. Tours are available in French and in English.

Our wine tasting

We were offered 8 different wines for tasting, including the Château Romanin Grands Vins, the superb La Chappelle and the Romanin wines. We also tried the excellent ‘eau-de-vie’ brandy and the olive oils. We found them all really superb. The venue for the tasting was in the impressive entrance hall to Château Romanin which is literally buried into the rock. 

Our guided tour of the astronomical cathedral cellar 

Following our wine tasting we were taken on a guided tour of the incredibly impressive winery and cellar - and wow, did it impress!

Leaving the entrance hall we were taken into the spectacular cathedral cellar - built in 1992, using a combination of wood, steel and concrete and designed according to astronomy principles and cathedral design, full of soaring gothic arches and sculpted columns.

At the heart of the underground cathedral cellar is a spiral staircase, leading up to a grass-covered dome, which houses a very special collection of the estate’s wines and offers a stunning 360° view of the Alpilles, the vineyards, the ruins of Château Romanin and Mont Ventoux in the background.

This tour was like no other cellar tour we have experienced and we would really recommend it - but make sure you book ahead!

Where to find Château Romanin

Route de Cavaillon, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

Where to find Château Romanin wines

Château Romanin wines are available via their website but also in the UK via several wine specialists including The Wine Society, Vivino and Haynes, Hanson & Clark.  

Other wineries to visit in Les Baux de Provence

Other notable wineries you could visit in the Les Baux de Provence region include:

• Mas Sainte Berthe

• Mas de la Dame

• Domaine de Terres Blanches

• Domaine de Trevallon

What is Les Baux de Provence known for?

Considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in France, Les Baux de Provence is definitely worth visiting! However our positive recommendation does come with a caveat - it is highly popular and because of that it caters for many tourists.

Try to look beyond this however and see its beauty, its charm and its Provençal traditions. 

There are 22 historic, listed monuments to explore, notably the castle which dominates the village - the Château des Baux. From a historical perspective this is a village well-worth visiting! Its incredible setting on the top of a rocky plateau, with the amazing views and architecture is also a major draw - then you have the sheer beauty of its tiny, winding, medieval streets, beautifully restored buildings, tree-lined squares, fountains and shaded terraces and the attraction of its many art galleries, craft shops, boutiques and restaurants.

This is a historic site and as such you can only visit on foot. There is ample car parking below the village entrance. You need to feel confident in managing hills, especially up the castle. A good starting point of your visit to Les Baux de Provence is the History Museum at the entrance of the village, then just wander, meander and soak in the incredible atmosphere!

Château des Baux

The Château des Baux is a must on the Provence trail! This immense stone fortress dominates the village and the surrounding countryside, commanding magnificent views. The area covers 5 hectares and you can enjoy a self-guided tour to learn all about the history of this huge and once very powerful medieval fortress.

Carrières de Lumières

Check out upcoming events here and try to coincide your visit with an amazing multimedia show - ‘Carrières de Lumières’ - which projects art illuminations onto the amazing rock formations. The Château des Baux and Baux de Provence provides a simply stunning, not to be missed opportunity to enjoy your favoured artist’s work in an incredibly magical setting.

Where to stay and where to eat in Les Baux de Provence

We stayed in Arles during our trip to Provence but there are many other more local options for visiting Les Baux de Provence. See here for accommodation and restaurant options. 

Where else to visit around the Les Baux de Provence wine region

Saint Rémy de Provence

Not as immediately visually impressive as Les Baux de Provence, but nearby Saint Rémy de Provence is definitely worth a visit - and it isn’t so touristy and over-crowded. It’s especially worth visiting if you are an art lover. This beautiful and ancient village is synonymous with the great artist Vincent Van Gogh, who produced more than 150 paintings of the area. 

Stroll its ancient streets and enjoy the beautiful buildings and ancient Roman remains, but above all enjoy the wonderful laid-back atmosphere and Provençal traditions. 

Avignon

We combined our visit to Les Baux de Provence with a stop-off at the ancient ‘papal’ city of Avignon, at one time, the seat of the popes and the world’s medieval capital. Today Avignon is only a small city, but it packs a punch in terms of history and its historic monuments, art and culture, shopping, dining and simply chilling!

We decided to use our time in Avignon wisely and take a tourist train journey around the key sites. It was great fun and excellent value for money! You can also link with an open-top bus tour. See here for more details.

Our train left from the Place du Palais du Papes - the main square in Avignon, which sits in front of the famous and majestic Pope’s Palace - a Unesco World Heritage Site. Built in the 1300s, a tour of the palace is a must when in Avignon!

The train took us past the Petit Palais, a former cardinal’s residence, then up to the Rocher des Doms, a beautiful, peaceful area with amazing views across to Villeneuve-les-Avignon and the famous Avignon bridge - the Saint Bénézet Bridge. Just 4 arches of the original bridge remain, which was built around 1180 and immortalised in the song, ‘Sur le pont d’Avignon, en y danse, en y danse’!

See here for more information about Avignon, but try to visit if you can!

The villages of Provence

Part of the charm of Provence is to explore its typical, charming, local villages - here are some delightful villages to visit in the Alpilles, in the region of Les Baux de Provence.

Typical Provençal villages in the area are : Maussane, Mouries, Fontvieille, Eygalières, Le Paradou and Maillane.

For more ideas about where to visit and what to do in the Les Baux de Provence region, see here.

Also see our web pages on Provence and the Rhône Valley for further ideas of what to do and see in this beautiful part of France!

 Traditional food and local dishes

Provençal food is central to Provençal culture and daily life.

The cuisine of Provence is based on Mediterranean influences and superb local ingredients such as fresh fish, shellfish and anchovies, amazing vegetables including garlic, capers, olives, tomatoes, red peppers, courgettes/zucchini, aubergines /eggplants, sumptuous fruits including melons, apricots, strawberries and peaches, meats especially lamb and goat, pork and wild boar dried sausages (saucissons) flavoursome herbs and the local delicacy, truffles.

Conclusion and personal highlights

We love Provence so didn’t need to be convinced to explore Les Baux de Provence! We visited this famous village in the late afternoon in September - I’m not sure I would have enjoyed it quite so much if it were the height of Summer and packed with tourists! However it left a lasting impression on us and we would very much recommend visiting!

We were really impressed with Château Romanin - their wines yes, but also the location and the history too. This is definitely worth a visit!

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