Why explore the ‘Lower Mosel’ or ‘Terrassenmosel’ German wine region

Germany’s Mosel wine region is perhaps its most famous wine region - known for its classic, world-class Rieslings, made from grapes grown and farmed in vineyards clinging almost impossibly to the sides of the steep, slate slopes leading down to the beautiful river below.

The steepest vineyards - in fact the steepest in Europe - are in the northern-most part of the region, in what’s called the ‘Lower Mosel’ or the ‘Terrassenmosel’, named after the steep terraces on which the vines are planted. The Lower Mosel region extends, following the flow of the river, from the town of Koblenz in the north, down to Zell - just over 80km - passing through the popular wine town and tourist destination of Cochem with its imposing hilltop castle, Burg Cochem.

Every lover of great wine and stunning wine scenery needs to have the Terrassenmosel on their list of places to visit and wines to try! This is vine-growing at its most dramatic and challenging!

An outline of our ‘Terrassenmosel’ wine tour

We decided to explore the region, its villages, castles, vineyards and wines - and of course the River Mosel - basing ourselves in the lovely town of Koblenz. Our Terrassenmosel tour lasted 3 days and we were there in the early Autumn - a fantastic time to visit with the sun holding out, the trees and vines starting to turn colour and the wineries preparing for harvest!

Mosel wineries to visit in Terrassenmosel

Sections of the Lower Mosel are impossible to farm due to the dramatic landscape and geography, but there are some fantastic wines being produced here, in the most challenging of conditions. Significant wine communes have developed along the River, especially in Winningen, close to Koblenz and Bremm, in between Cochem and Zell. Consistent across all of Germany’s wine regions, there are great examples of the next generation of young, creative, passionate winemakers taking over in the Mosel wine region and producing some amazing wines, which are getting attention all over the World.

We spent time visiting two top Terrassenmosel wine producers, Weingut Knebel in Winningen, not far from Koblenz and Weingut Franzen, further south, in Bremm, whose vineyards are on the famously steep Bremmer Calmont. Both are known as much for the excellent wines, as for their incredible vineyards and the challenges they face in farming them.

Mosel wine tasting - TerrassenMosel

You will always be welcome to visit Mosel wineries and vineyards for wine tasting, but it’s best to contact them first to check that somebody will be available to receive you. Wine is a way of life here and the people greeting you and introducing their wines to you are probably also the same people working in the vineyards and in the cellar! It’s not usual to have to pay for a wine tasting.

You will find vineyards and wineries around every river bend in the TerrassenMosel - some we would recommend are listed here. 

Weingut Knebel, Winningen

We worked with Weingut Knebel years ago when we were importing wine. We took restaurant sommeliers out to visit the vineyards and meet the winemaker, so we were keen to meet up again, this time spending time with the next generation winemaker, son Matthias Knebel.

This small (7 hectares), family-owned and run winery in Winningen is today under the management of Beate and son Matthias Knebel and has earned a reputation as one of the absolute top wine estates in the Terrassenmosel wine region. Its roots date back to 1642 and today it is a VDP classified winery, producing wines from vineyards which are recognised and classified as some of the top sites in Germany. 

Read about VDP classifications here.

Weingut Knebel vineyards

Knebel’s core focus is Riesling, produced from two extremely steep ‘Grand Cru’ (or Grosses Gewächs in German) vineyards, Uhlen and Röttgen. Many of their Riesling vines here are more than 40 years old and are deeply rooted into the steep, slate terraces. These are the foundation to create  Mosel Rieslings with fine elegance and powerful expression from low yields.

The climate here is ‘northern continental’ - summers are warm and the slate slopes retain the sun’s heat, which also reflects off the river, during the day and feeds it back to the vines during the night.  

Matthias explained that respect for Nature and tradition drives everything they do in the vineyard. The wines are not classified as organic but a result of environmentally-friendly and natural processes to allow the wines to develop unique characteristics, true to the terroir.

We were hugely privileged to be taken up to the Röttgen site by Matthias to stand above the vines looking down at the River Mosel below - here we got to really appreciate the extent of the challenges faced in farming these very special vineyards. 

Weingut Knebel wines

The particular micro-climate allows for a long growing and ripening season, producing wines which are relatively low in alcohol, but intense in flavour. The slate soils help produce fragrant wines, full of mineral and fruit flavours, with a superb balance of sweetness and acidity.

Knebel’s approach to let Nature take its course follows through from the vineyard into the cellar, where a slow fermentation of the wine, on natural yeast, takes place, without interference. 

Wine tasting at Weingut Knebel

Our hair-raising, but amazing trip up to the vineyards was followed by a wine tasting in Knebel’s welcoming tasting room. 

Here we tasted a range of Knebel wines from the 2020 vintage - and we were impressed by the consistency of quality - from the dry entry-level Gutsriesling to the top end and full-bodied Grosses Gewächs Röttgen Riesling, which was superb, with citrus fruit on the nose, stone fruit and plenty of flinty minerals on the palate, packaged with lots of refreshing acidity.  A treat to drink now but will also mature well in the bottle for another 10 years to come.

If you wish to visit Weingut Knebel in Winningen, make sure you book your visit in advance.  Wine tastings can be conducted in English.

Where to find Weingut Knebel

Where to buy Knebel wines in the UK

As a small wine producer Knebel does not work with the larger importers/wine retailers. Their wines are normally available from ‘The Winery UK’, but due to challenges of importing wines following Brexit, stocks may be limited.

Weingut Franzen, Bremm

Kilian and wife Angelina Franzen manage 10 hectares of vineyards in what is probably one of the World’s most dramatic and challenging of locations you can grow vines in! Their winery is in the small town Bremm in the county of Cochem-Zell, lying at the foot of the awe-inspiring ‘Bremmer Calmont’ - said to be the ‘steepest vineyard in Europe’. 

The mountain slope is about 2km long and rises at an incline of some 65 degrees to a height of 300m above the River Mosel. It lies between the towns of Bremm and Eller on an almost improbably narrow loop in the river - you will have seen photos of these famous loops in the Mosel and this one is made more spectacular by the presence of this huge mountain slope. Looking up the mountain side from the road really brings it home to you how steep - and dangerous - this slope is to farm. Driving or hiking/cycling to the top affords the most rewarding and impressive of views!

Kilian and Angelina took over the vineyards and winery in their early 20s, after the tragic and untimely death of Kilian’s father Ulrich. They set about carrying on the work he had started in 1999, with the same passion and dedication, to preserve, develop and nurture these very special vineyards to produce world-class Riesling wines. 

Drinking a bottle of Franzen Riesling, you can only marvel at the 100% manual and skilled labour, the love and dedication and the power of Nature that goes into every sip of this precious liquid. Kilian, Angelina and only one other full time employee work tirelessly in the vineyards, on the mountainside and in the cellar to produce around 90,000 bottles of wine per year.

Weingut Franzen vineyards

Franzen’s Bremmer Calmont vineyard covers approximately 1.5 hectares of the mountain slope, called the Fachkaul, made up of 112 small parcels amongst the craggy rocks and slate soil. It took Kilian’s father, Ulrich 3 years to plant just under 8,000 vines. Today Kilian and Angelina tend to these vines with the help of a 500m monorail which stretches from the Mosel up the top of the Fachkaul. As well as tending to the vines there is a never ending cycle of maintaining and reconstructing the vital terrace walls. This is viticulture at its most challenging!

The Bremmer Calmont vineyard enjoys a very special micro-climate. Forest and hedges on the summit of the mountain protect the vines from the cold air and the warming effects of the water are intensified by the natural loop of the River Mosel at the foot of the mountain.

On the other side of the River to the Bremmer Calmont, further round towards Neef and Zell, lie Franzen’s other vineyard - the Neefer Frauenberg, named after an Augustian female monastery which was situated here, dating back to the 12th century, Less impressive than Bremmer Calmont maybe, lying on 100m slopes on the banks of the Mosel, but nevertheless, one of the top and oldest vineyard sites in the Mosel wine region, thought to date back to Roman times. The low, south facing slopes are optimally placed for retaining the warmth of the sun and the mineral-rich slate soils provide an excellent source of natural fertilisation.

Franzen also grows Pinot Blanc and Elbling vines in sandy soils just opposite the Bremmer Calmont, around the ‘Kloster Stuben’ - the ruins of a 17th century monastery. This only represents about 10% of their vines. 

Weingut Franzen wines

Kilian and Angelina Franzen produce modern, dry Riesling, picked very late (at the end of October) for full ripeness, showing lots of smoky minerals from the quartz-infused slate. Their Rieslings are really gaining attention and accolades in the wine world - and justifiably so!

Pick of wines: ‘Riesling der Sommer war sehr gross 2020’. This wine is special to Kilian and Angelina, representing 10 years of developing their winery and wines, a cuvée of Franzen’s two top sites, not totally dry, but still dry to taste. A great wine to experience a great balance between minerality, yellow stone and citrus fruit and acidity. At 12% alcohol it is a good partner for Thai dishes but it can be enjoyed as a refreshing Riesling on its own.  We were also impressed by the entry level Riesling Quarzit trocken (dry) 2020 and the single Cru Riesling Bremmer Calmont Grand Cru 2019. 

Wine tasting at Weingut Franzen

We spent a really enjoyable hour with Kilian and Angelina in Bremm, where their home, winery and tasting room is located. They recently developed the impressive tasting room and outdoor seating area to accommodate visitors in all weathers and take pride in sharing their story and their wines. It is advisable to pre-arrange a visit as the couple are extremely busy - and tastings can be conducted in English.

Where to find Weingut Franzen

Where to buy Franzen wines in the UK

Franzen wines aren’t currently available in the UK - but watch this space!

Useful tips for exploring Terrassenmosel in the Mosel wine region, Germany

Transport and where to stay

We stayed at the Hotel Mercure in Koblenz, using this lovely town as a base for our visit to the Terrassenmosel.

Koblenz is easily reached via car and train, using Frankfurt or Cologne as the nearest airport. There’s lots to explore here and plenty of good restaurants - see below. Also, it’s where the River Mosel and River Lahn both join the mighty River Rhine and is a great stop-off for River boat trips and cruises. You can also easily combine wine tours of the Mosel wine region with the nearby MittelRhein wine region - and don’t have to go too far to also explore the Rheingau and Rheinhessen wine regions!

The Hotel Mercure provided a great base - situated right on the River (Rhine), with lots of restaurants and sights within easy walking distance. The hotel was very comfortable, reasonably priced, served an excellent buffet breakfast and had a large and secure car park. The only weakness during our stay was the quality of the WiFi - but hopefully that was just a temporary problem!

For other accommodation options in Koblenz, see here.

What to see and do

In Koblenz: 

• Stroll around the ‘old town’ to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the lovely old buildings, churches and shops/restaurants

• Visit the famous Deutsches Eck - the German ‘corner’ where the River Rhine and River Mosel merge

• Stroll along the rivers and watch the cruise ships go by! (lovely to do in the evening)

• Take the cable car up to the imposing citadel - Ehrenbreitstein - overlooking the town below

See here for some more ideas for visiting Koblenz.

Take a trip on the river:

There are lots of options, but the main river boat operator is KD (Köln Düsseldorfer), which offers boat trips up and down the River Rhine and down the River Mosel. You can buy your tickets in advance from the many riverside kiosks and can also combine with train tickets.

Seeing the sights from the river is the absolute best way to enjoy and appreciate this beautiful region of Germany. Not only do you get the best view of the river towns and villages, but also the famous and dramatic castles on the Mosel and the Rhine and the stunning scenery. Nobody has to drive, you can enjoy a glass of wine, great food and excellent information and commentary!

Cycle along the Mosel

Combine with a boat trip - or - instead of a boat trip - and explore the River Mosel and its wine villages by bike! There are plenty of places to hire bikes and as throughout Germany, riding a bike on the Mosel is easy and safe - and highly enjoyable!

Visit the popular town of Cochem: 

The small town of Cochem on the River Mosel, with its winding streets and half-timbered houses is a top attraction of the TerrassenMosel. Take time to explore the old town with its old city wall and fortifications as well as the impressive Reichsburg Cochem castle, perched 300m above the river. You can book tickets to visit the castle - one of the best and most beautiful Rhine or Mosel castles - where there is also a restaurant. Learn more about what to see and do in Cochem here.

Tip - we found a lovely spot for a drink or a picnic - at a place called Cochem Vallwig, just 10 minutes outside of Cochem towards Bremm.

Discover Beilstein:

The picturesque village of Beilstein is located on one of the most scenic sections of the river - also called the "Sleeping Beauty of the Mosel". Take time to wander and soak up the atmosphere in what is said to be one of Germany’s most beautiful villages.

Visit Bremm, the Bremmer Calmont, Kloster Stuben and Ediger-Eller

Combine visiting Weingut Franzen in Bremm with a visit to the town and up to the viewing point on top of the Bremmer Calmont, which offers terrific views across the Mosel valley. There are lots of walking and cycling trails and any physical effort is absolutely rewarded by the views and scenery! There is a fabulous climbing trail - the Calmont Klettersteig (or ‘via ferrata’) - not for the faint hearted and quite challenging - but hugely rewarding!

Visit the 17th century monastery ruins across the river - Kloster Stuben. The English artist Turner once painted the monastery, which you can see today in the Tate Gallery, London.

The nearby town of Ediger-Eller is also worth a visit if only a pit-stop to appreciate the beautiful buildings on the banks of the Mosel.

Terrassenmosel castles worth visiting

Eltz Castle -  The only completely preserved Mosel hill castle (12th century), lying in a picturesque valley towards the Eifel. 

Thurant Castle - located above the lovely village of Alken, one of the most imposing castles on the Mosel.

Where to eat

As we were based in Koblenz, see below some excellent recommendations for dining out here. We found the choice and standard of restaurants to be excellent.

• Traditional German food: Winninger Stuben (a very popular wine bar on the banks of the Rhine - excellent food and a great choice of local wines - reservation essential; Weindorf Koblenz (right by Hotel Mercure - good traditional fayre!)

• International influenced gourmet restaurant: Gerhards Genussgesellschaft (great atmosphere, great food, lovely terrace - reservation essential)

• Italian restaurants in Koblenz ‘old town’: Trattoria da Raffaele (excellent quality and choice of ‘specials’); Restaurant Pizzeria la Mamma (cheaper option but still great quality and great value, good pizzas, pasta, salads)

• Vietnamese restaurant: An Nam (Asia fusion, sushi & BBQ - excellent quality)

Conclusion

We spent a fabulous few days in the Terrassenmosel and we really hope our wine tour here inspires you to plan your own!

Germany’s Terrassenmosel wine region, with it’s gravity-defying vineyards, stunning scenery, beautiful river, dramatic castles and superb, world-class wines should be on the priority list for all wine and travel enthusiasts!

For more information about planning a wine tour of the Lower Mosel region see here.

Refer to our web pages for more information about German wines and the Germany’s Mosel wine region

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