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Discover Auckland and Waiheke Island wines

Written by Robert Giorgione; a guest writer for Winekeller, a passionate New Zealand wine specialist, brand ambassador and award-winning sommelier, and owner of Roving Sommelier Wines & Deli

Villa Maria Winery, Mangere, Auckland, North Island © Copyright Robert Giorgione 2014   

So why should you travel more than halfway across the world – to New Zealand – for your next big holiday? Because, for starters, it is just so… epic. If you are looking for the Great Outdoors, then New Zealand will deliver it to you in spades, and then some. New Zealand should be on everyone’s bucket lists. For, it is also one of the top world travel destinations for wine tourism, too.

An introduction to Auckland New Zealand

Of course, for most people when they talk about New Zealand cities, Auckland (the country’s largest) on North Island, is the first to spring to mind. Auckland is also New Zealand’s busiest international gateway, with most world travellers and visitors using this vibrant city as a base from which to explore the rest of the Greater Auckland region and beyond.

Auckland is an extremely cosmopolitan city, chock full of world class hotels, bars, cafés and restaurants, markets, and shops, and offers a diverse range of tastes, cultures, and cuisines. However, once you get past the downtown hustle and bustle, the central business districts, busy traffic, and urban sprawl, you will discover a beautiful countryside that is rich in history and culture.

Viaduct Harbour, Auckland, North Island © Copyright Robert Giorgione 2014 

Auckland’s spectacular scenery, with its two harbours, dozens of islands and more than fifty volcanoes, contrasts happily with its big-city energy, mixing Asian and Pacific islander culture with a love of life on the water. Auckland’s cuisine is Pacific Rim, with Mediterranean influences adding to the melting pot of tastes and flavours. There is a large Asian community in the city, mostly Korean, whose culture and street food have been absorbed into the way of life.

Waiheke Island Auckland

Waiheke Island has become the premier destination of Aucklanders for weekend retreats from the city and day trips to taste wine and the unspoilt beaches. Such is the popular demand for accommodation that the increase in building new residences on Waiheke now almost equals the rate of construction in downtown Auckland. Just a 40-minute trip by ferry over the calm waters of the inner harbour, it is a world away from the frenetic urban pace.

Visitors are immediately plunged into the ‘island time’ atmosphere. A few people have their holiday homes (known as a ‘Bach’) on the island or have chosen to live there and – similarly to Sydney or New York - commute to work by ferry each day to the city. Once on the island it is very easy to get around, as shuttle buses meet the ferry to take arriving passengers to various destinations around the island. Alternatively, you can hire bikes, cars, and motorhomes to take you around at your own pace.

Waiheke Island, Auckland, North Island © Copyright Robert Giorgione 2014

Auckland wine

The Auckland wine region is large and very diverse and home to some of New Zealand’s biggest wine companies, as well as numerous high-quality boutique vineyards.

Waiheke Island wine:

Waiheke’s reputation for powerful red wines, especially Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah, was built on the original plantings and production of Stonyridge and Goldwater vineyards, but over the past two or three decades many other vineyards have joined these pioneers, some of which are making equally flavoursome and interesting wines. Waiheke Island has also become synonymous with top notch Chardonnay, too, with Goldie’s “Zell” Vineyard and Man O’ War’s “Valhalla” leading the pack.

Visitors are welcomed at several wineries and can eat in good quality cafés. You can also choose from at least half a dozen or so luxury accommodation lodges, should you wish to stay overnight, or for longer on the island.

Whilst on Waiheke Island, as well as Stonyridge and Goldwater (now known as Goldie), I suggest you visit the following vineyards: Man O’War; Te Whau; Cable Bay; Mudbrick; Obsidian; Passage Rock; Podere Crisci, and Destiny Bay, amongst others. What’s more, if you like fish and chips and fresh oysters, The Oyster House is a must-visit should you fancy a bite to eat in between wine tastings.

Cable Bay vineyards, Waiheke Island, Auckland

West Aukland wine: 

Kumeu River winery

Located in Kumeu, northwest of Auckland, more than any other winery, Kumeu River and the Brajkovich family can take credit for the rebirth of West Auckland as a wine making region of significance. During the 1920s and 30s, this part of Auckland became home to Dalmatian immigrants, who located to this area from their home (in modern day Croatia) to work and brought with them their own food and drink culture that also included making wine. Back in the day, these wines were fairly basic and more like fortified sherries and port-style wines that were part of their heritage. What’s more, many of these pioneering immigrant winegrowing families went on to form the very important foundations of New Zealand’s wine industry. When other long-established West Auckland wineries such as Babich, Nobilo, and Montana (now known as Brancott Estate) started planting vineyards in other regions in the 1970s and 1980s, Kumeu River stayed put.

Though the heavy clay soils and humid climate were not ideal for grapes, the late family patriarch Maté Brajkovich insisted on fully testing the region’s potential before joining the exodus. His persistence, combined with the viticultural and vinification techniques learned by son Michael at Roseworthy College (who became New Zealand’s first Master of Wine), paid off. Michael also cut his vigneron’s teeth with the Moueix family (owners of Petrus) at various properties in St Emilion and Pomerol in Bordeaux during the legendary 1982 vintage and assisted at Chateau Magdelaine in 1983.

Maté’s Vineyard”, Kumeu River, Auckland, North Island

Kumeu River Chardonnay, especially the ‘iconic’ “Maté’s Vineyard” (which I have given 5 stars), along with Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, and Felton Road’s Pinot Noir from Central Otago, was one of the New Zealand wines that made the wine world sit up and take notice in the late 1980s.

When I was at Kumeu River during the 2006 vintage harvest, it was such a genuine treat to be able to spend some time picking the brains of the great man. I have never forgotten the big smile on Michael’s face when we tucked into some juicy ripe Merlot grapes just harvested from the vineyard. “The 2006 harvest is absolutely perfect! It almost reminds me of the 1982 Bordeaux – perfect natural ripeness, juicy and delicious, yet still with plenty of freshness. It makes my job a lot easier when working with such healthy grapes.”

Although Kumeu River have now extended its vineyards and increased its wine production, this family-owned winery still makes world class Chardonnays, which are considered New Zealand’s benchmark, and their wines have gone from strength to strength. What’s more, they now produce a top-notch French-inspired “Crémant” sparkling wine, which is a delicious addition to their wine portfolio. Most importantly, all the Brajkovich family remain involved in every step of the wine journey, as the winegrowing baton gets passed onto the next generation.

Matakana wine:

Only less than an hour’s drive north of Auckland city and close to a myriad of stunning beaches on the East Coast, Matakana is a popular getaway spot for locals and visitors alike. Matakana, with its vibrant arts scene, is a foodie and wine tourism heaven - if you enjoy home-grown delicacies, a wide array of local farmers markets, and award-winning wine then look no further. Matakana also boasts a small selection of boutique vineyards, that are also some of the oldest in New Zealand. Planted in the early days, many decades ago, most vineyards produce wines of reasonable quality. However, being relatively warm and humid, (in the southern hemisphere it gets warmer the more north you go), it was decided to focus on other local products such as orchard fruits, fresh vegetables, and olives, (to make olive oil, of course) and vineyard plantings moved further south where they could benefit from a cooler climate.

This warm and sunny region also includes top notch restaurants and cafés, boutique accommodation, including luxury resorts and lodges, and some of the best golf courses in the world. What’s not to like?

Villa Maria Wines

For most people, the only reason to go to Mangere (a suburb in South Auckland) is to depart from Auckland’s International airport. However, this unremarkable locale is also where Villa Maria’s headquarters are situated.

You’ll find it’s well worth visiting Villa Maria, as not only are the winery and administrative buildings set in colourful, landscaped gardens and beautifully manicured lawns (where open-air theatre and music events are hosted), but they have a lovely restaurant, including a delightful veranda and cellar door shop there, too. All the dishes on the sumptuous menu are paired with a Villa Maria wine by the glass. For me, it’s the perfect day trip, and wine tourism experience when you need to spend a bit of quality time outside the city centre and relax and enjoy some wonderful vineyard hospitality.

Villa Maria, like Kumeu River is part of New Zealand’s ‘Family of Twelve’ (a group of New Zealand's most elite wineries that sum up the evolution and revolution in New Zealand wine) and was also born out of the same pioneering immigrant family heritage established several decades ago. Villa Maria has now become a successful world-renowned New Zealand brand loved by loyal wine aficionados, seen on the shelves in wine merchants and that graces the tables of top restaurants around the globe.

Villa Maria Winery, Mangere, Auckland, North Island © Copyright Robert Giorgione 2014

Continuing in a southerly direction, around 40 minutes’ drive along the busy main state highway, you come to a quaint little town called Clevedon. This is home to Vin Alto, a small boutique vineyard, restaurant, and artisan farm owned by Italian immigrant, Enzo Bettio, and his wife Margaret, (whom I met around fifteen years ago), who crafts authentic Italian varietals in tiny quantities. The renovated winery has beautiful modern touches yet still boasts classic Mediterranean outdoor alfresco dining where you can unwind amongst the olive groves, enjoy good, old-fashioned hospitality, and listen to the birds sing.

The extensive wine list and selection of international and local brews paired with their creative and elegant menu make Vin Alto a destination for an intimate evening out or a get together with family and friends. The Clevedon Hills is certainly off the beaten track, but definitely worth the journey, and when you visit Vin Alto, you will always receive a warm welcome. What’s more, the beautiful Coromandel Peninsula is located not far from here should you wish to stock up the campervan, and enjoy the islands, stunning beaches, and picture postcard coastline for a bit of holiday fun in the sun.

Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula

Conclusion

To conclude, the best thing about travelling to a foreign country is giving yourself a reason to return by not trying to cram everything all in one go. At least when you go back you will have a genuine opportunity to visit some new places, meet some more new people and enjoy some new experiences.

Award-winning sommelier, Robert Giorgione’s latest book “Roving Sommelier’s Bucket List of New Zealand Wines” (2023 Edition) is now available. To buy your copy, please go to http://www.anepicureanodyssey.com

The epicurean odyssey continues…

More about Robert Giorgione:

Award-winning sommelier Robert Giorgione has been in the hospitality and retail industry for more than 35 years, including 17 years of experience in London where he worked as wine buyer and head sommelier in some of the best fine-dining restaurants and retail establishments, and also won many prestigious awards for his wine lists and sommelier skills. Most recently, Robert also picked up valuable experience in retail and customer service at the iconic Wally’s in Cardiff and previously worked as sommelier at the famous Park House Restaurant, Wine Bar and Private Rooms also in Cardiff, where he massively contributed to the establishment’s successful reputation for fine-dining and sommelier service and its award-winning wine list.

Now relocated to beautiful South Wales, Robert owns and runs Roving Sommelier Wines & Deli – an independent wine merchant and deli in Newport Market and Food Court, which stocks some of the finest affordable premium wines from around the world and epicurean treats, and Robert works enthusiastically to guide wine lovers and consumers towards something that’s right both for palate and pocket.

See here for further details.

In addition to this Robert has many years of experience as a wine consultant for a variety of private and corporate clients, (New Zealand Wine Growers, Wine Chap, Naked Wines, and Les Caves de Pyrene, amongst many others), and has been a wine judge for many prestigious international wine awards and competitions (his areas of experience include New Zealand, Regional Italy, Spain, and South-West France). In fact, the South-West of France, and in particular the region of Roussillon has a special place in Robert’s heart, as he has a real fondness for the local Vin Doux Naturel wines that pair extremely well with desserts and chocolate. In October 2012, while working with William Curley, Robert won the UK Final of the Roussillon Dessert Competition alongside pastry chef Sarah Frankland. The sommelier and chef pâtissier team went on to represent the UK in the European Final held in Perpignan in April 2013 and won the overall title of European Champions, beating the crème de la crème of Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Denmark. An achievement and experience that Robert is genuinely proud of.

Robert’s talents and experience also extends to writing, blogging, and between 2010 and 2013 he produced 275 roving sommelier video blogs on his Roving Sommelier TV You Tube channel.

Robert’s latest book “Roving Sommelier’s Bucket List of New Zealand Wines” (2023 Edition) is now available. To buy your copy, please go to http://www.anepicureanodyssey.com