Written by Robert Giorgione; a guest writer for Winekeller, a passionate New Zealand wine specialist, brand ambassador and award-winning sommelier, and owner of Roving Sommelier Wines & Deli

An introduction to Central Otago

Otago is perhaps the most picturesque region in New Zealand. Possibly except for dramatic Franschhoek in South Africa and rugged Priorat in Catalonia, it is by far the most scenic of the world’s wine regions. High praise indeed and apart from the obvious draw to the region of copious amounts of fine wine, sheep, outdoor pursuits, adrenalin sports and bungy-jumping, Wanaka and Queenstown have become destinations for travellers from all over the world. What’s more, both locations are fairly accessible from a variety of routes within the South Island: either from the northwest along the coastal road via iconic glaciers, mountains, rock formations, and lakes, down the rugged West Coast, or from the northeast and via the vast and undulating, sheep-grazing terrain into neighbouring Canterbury.

While New Zealand’s wine regions are mostly maritime influenced, Central Otago is the only one to enjoy a continental climate. Long and warm growing seasons with a bigger diurnal range (the difference in day and night temperatures) helps to develop bold fruit flavours and a richer, riper style, balanced by good natural acidity in the region’s wines. An additional indication of Central Otago’s warmer microclimate is the sign that greets you when you enter Bannockburn: “You are now entering the desert.”

Beside the turquoise waters of the always chilly Clutha River grow scented fields of thyme, and in summer there are orchards of luscious apricots, nectarines, and other stone fruits. The local rabbits have plenty on which to fill themselves with all this tasty seasonal produce. Bounded in the north by the St Bathans Range and in the west by the Main Divide, Central Otago encompasses lakes Hawea and Wanaka and spreads south as far as the long dog leg of Lake Wakatipu and the Shotover River, a popular stretch for jet boating excursions. On the northern shore of Lake Wakatipu lies the vibrant tourist town of Queenstown, servicing the ski resorts of Coronet Peak and the surrounding evocatively named “The Remarkables”. This area has become the playground for the international jet set, rich and famous, and the not so rich and famous backpackers and students.

I have been to the region three times – first in 2003, then in 2004 and in 2014 when I spent more than ten days in Central Otago and immersed myself in all the region has to offer. The SH6 takes you directly between the twin lakes of Hawea on your left and Wanaka on your right. The town itself is very picturesque and extremely tranquil. If you go there at the right time of year (preferably in autumn), when it’s at its most photogenic, you will witness Wanaka’s beauty at its best. If you’re looking for a bit of peace and quiet, then Wanaka is the place for you, especially if you want to avoid the boisterous hustle and bustle of Queenstown.

Central Otago wines and Central Otago Pinot noir

Central Otago is also a haven for wine tourism, captivating enthusiastic travellers from around the world, ready to quench their thirst on the region’s fine Pinots.

In fact, Wanaka is home to possibly the most photographed vineyard in the country: Rippon Vineyard with the beautiful lake and Mt Aspiring in the background. I am a big fan of their wines, which are farmed using biodynamic practices. The region may remind you of Northern Italy with its picturesque lakes such as Como, Maggiore, or Garda. It has a similar ambience too and you can smell the wafts of money in the clean, fresh air, as it has become a destination for the more affluent traveller. Personally, I am still undecided where I am going to retire. Waiheke Island or Wanaka?

The rush to plant vines in Central Otago over the past recent years has been almost as reminiscent of the gold-rush days of the nineteenth century. From Queenstown to Wanaka and Tarras, through Gibbston Valley and alongside SH6, around Lowburn, in the hills that surround Bannockburn and Alexandra, on the plains of Bendigo, around Lake Dunstan and now in North Otago’s Waitaki Valley, row upon row of new vines can be spotted as investors chance their luck with Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling and other varietals. The world of wine has brought with it a new aspect to this region, which is unrivalled in New Zealand for adventure tourism and its spectacularly dramatic scenery. It has fast become the number one destination for thrill-seeking tourists and now also offers an exciting wine scene. Even though I have tasted many wines from the region and continue to do so, year on year new labels continue to spring up and at a very rapid rate. The older and most original Central Otago vineyards have continued to develop, evolve, and improve gracefully and lead the way.

The history of Central Otago wines

The Central Otago wine story goes something like this. The history of wine goes back to the early days of the European settlement when gold miners arrived here in the 1860s. Among them a couple of Frenchmen grew some grapes and established a little winery in Clyde in 1864. Unfortunately, this was not followed up and when they left the region was devoted towards the planting of stone fruit and used for sheep grazing. In 1895 the New Zealand Government brought Australian-based, Italian-trained viticulturist Romeo Bragato to the country to identify land suitable for grape growing. Central Otago was one of the first places he visited, and he enthusiastically endorsed the region as “eminently suitable”. 

Once again, the advice was ignored by the locals. It was not until the 1970s and early 1980s, a century after those early French settlers, that serious efforts to re-establish wine growing in Otago resumed. A handful of modern pioneers planted experimental plots, and these bore fruit when the first commercial wine was produced in 1987 by Alan Brady at Gibbston Valley Vineyard. In 1996, Central Otago totalled 11 wineries and at present there are more than 100 wineries registered in the region. In a remarkably short space of time Central Otago has earned an international reputation, particularly for its Central Otago Pinot noir.

Central Otago is now New Zealand’s fourth largest and its wines grace dinner tables around the world, regularly winning medals, and trophies in all the notable international wine competitions.

Read more about Central Otago wines.

Central Otago is the world’s most southerly wine region. The gentle valleys have a mellow microclimate like that of Tuscany or Burgundy, and their alluvial schist soils and north-facing slopes (the best aspect in the Southern Hemisphere) have begun to produce some excellent quality premium wines.

Olives are starting to take hold here and the region is now famed for its local delicacy – “Black Gold” a.k.a truffles. This is living life on the edge and the climate is very marginal, especially in Waitaki, which only has a small handful of winegrowers grafting away trying to make a living. Once again, the common theme of a distinct lack of traffic abounds here. Those used to getting stuck in London’s rush-hour traffic on Marylebone Road or in a jam on Hyde Park Corner will be refreshed by the region’s relaxed pace. 

Central Otago has been divided up into six smaller sub-regions, which are now starting to display their own unique terroir nuances and stylistic differences and individual expressions. The sub regions are: Gibbston; Wanaka; The Cromwell Basin; Bannockburn; Bendigo, and the Alexandra Basin.

Central Otago wineries

Some of the best Central Otago wineries and boutique vineyards worth visiting - and my favourite - include Felton Road; Mt Difficulty; Burn Cottage; Misha’s Vineyard; Wooing Tree; Tarras Vineyards; Valli; Gibbston Valley; Rippon; Akarua; Carrick; Peregrine; Amisfield; Quartz Reef; Chard Farm; The Ostler, amongst many others.

For me though, the jewel in the Central Otago crown is Mt Difficulty, especially for its top-notch wines and mountain-top cellar door shop and restaurant. From there, the picturesque views of Bannockburn and its vineyards down below, the Kawarau River Gorge, and the gently undulating landscape of the Cromwell Basin, including Lake Dunstan evoke many fond memories.

 Visiting Queenstown

Queenstown is an ideal location to use as a base for various excursions around the region. The city itself is a great destination with much to offer, especially with its sophisticated dining scene and exclusive hotels and resorts. The place is full of adrenalin junkies and sporty types, hungry for snow and partying.

One of the places to hang out is the legendary burger joint called ‘Fergburgers’, which has become a bit of an institution. They also own the premises next door, which has been turned into a pie shop. Their meat pies are delicious and great washed down with a local ale.

Apart from visiting individual wineries, a great way to experience many of Central Otago’s top wines is to visit the now-iconic wine tasting room and shop located in Queenstown Mall, chock full of self-service enomatic machines, where you can sample a plethora of the region’s boutique vineyards’ top drops. Queenstown also has a wonderful array of bars, cafés, and restaurants that range from simple fish’ n’ chip and pie shops to homely microbreweries and pubs, serving regional craft beers and ales, to posh, celebrity chef-owned, fine dining restaurants when you feel like pushing the boat out and treating yourself.

As well as the fabulous food and drink, and spectacular, picture-postcard landscape, one thing that I will remember from my Central Otago experience is the fresh thyme - it grows everywhere and as you walk through the hills the aromatic wafts of fresh herbs fill your nostrils. What’s more, this herbal scent and notes of violets in particular, imparts a unique and distinctive aromatic flavour in most Central Otago wines rather like the ‘garrigue’ in Southern France. Again, another useful marker for when you’re tasting a line-up of wines ‘blind’.

Conclusion

To conclude, the best thing about travelling to a foreign country is giving yourself a reason to return by not trying to cram everything all in one go. At least when you go back you will have a genuine opportunity to visit some new places, meet some more new people and enjoy some new experiences.

The epicurean odyssey continues…. 

More about Robert Giorgione:

Award-winning sommelier Robert Giorgione has been in the hospitality and retail industry for more than 35 years, including 17 years of experience in London where he worked as wine buyer and head sommelier in some of the best fine-dining restaurants and retail establishments, and also won many prestigious awards for his wine lists and sommelier skills. Most recently, Robert also picked up valuable experience in retail and customer service at the iconic Wally’s in Cardiff and previously worked as sommelier at the famous Park House Restaurant, Wine Bar and Private Rooms also in Cardiff, where he massively contributed to the establishment’s successful reputation for fine-dining and sommelier service and its award-winning wine list.

Now relocated to beautiful South Wales, Robert owns and runs Roving Sommelier Wines & Deli – an independent wine merchant and deli in Newport Market and Food Court, which stocks some of the finest affordable premium wines from around the world and epicurean treats, and Robert works enthusiastically to guide wine lovers and consumers towards something that’s right both for palate and pocket.

See here for further details.

In addition to this Robert has many years of experience as a wine consultant for a variety of private and corporate clients, (New Zealand Wine Growers, Wine Chap, Naked Wines, and Les Caves de Pyrene, amongst many others), and has been a wine judge for many prestigious international wine awards and competitions (his areas of experience include New Zealand, Regional Italy, Spain, and South-West France). In fact, the South-West of France, and in particular the region of Roussillon has a special place in Robert’s heart, as he has a real fondness for the local Vin Doux Naturel wines that pair extremely well with desserts and chocolate. In October 2012, while working with William Curley, Robert won the UK Final of the Roussillon Dessert Competition alongside pastry chef Sarah Frankland. The sommelier and chef pâtissier team went on to represent the UK in the European Final held in Perpignan in April 2013 and won the overall title of European Champions, beating the crème de la crème of Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Denmark. An achievement and experience that Robert is genuinely proud of.

Robert’s talents and experience also extends to writing, blogging, and between 2010 and 2013 he produced 275 roving sommelier video blogs on his Roving Sommelier TV You Tube channel.