Explore historic Dürnstein on the River Danube in the Wachau Austria
Take time to discover the famous Wachau wineries and Austrian wines of the neighbouring Loiben wine villages, Unterloiben and Oberloiben
Historic Dürnstein, with its famous castle ruins and blue ‘Stiftskirche’ on the River Danube - Source: Winekeller
Perhaps this is the most iconic image of Austria and the River Danube - the impossibly quaint, picturesque village of Dürnstein, complete with castle ruins and the blue, Baroque masterpiece that is the famous cloister tower of Dürnstein Abbey. Many visitors flock to this jewel on the Danube in Lower Austria, to experience the beautiful setting, the culture, the history and the landmarks and it’s a prime stopping point for the many river cruises along the Danube.
However, Dürnstein has so much more to offer - especially to the wine tourist! - venture a few minutes outside Dürnstein and you arrive at what is known as the ‘Loibens’ - 2 wine villages, Oberloiben and Unterloiben, nestled in the heart of the world-famous Wachau vineyards and home to some top wineries and also restaurants.
Read on to discover more!
Dürnstein in the distance from the famous Loiben wine villages and vineyards - Source: Winekeller
The Wachau Austria - world-famous Austrian wine region
The Wachau wine region is made up of an 18 mile stretch of the Danube valley in Lower Austria, between the beautiful, historic towns of Krems and Melk. This stretch of the glorious River Danube, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers the most amazing scenery, history, culture and tradition - as well as some of the best Austrian wine!
Wachau Grüner Veltliner wines are admired across the world and the Riesling wines produced here rank amongst some of the best there are.
The River Danube is the second longest river in Europe and the most important waterway in Austria - the part flowing through Lower Austria is 260 kilometres long. The Wachau Valley is the most famous section of the Danube in Lower Austria and is one of the best places to visit in Austria if you appreciate stunning river scenery surrounded by steep, terraced vineyards and apricot orchards, exploring charming, picturesque villages and visiting ancient castle ruins and baroque monasteries. We absolutely love exploring this Austrian wine region and also love Wachau wine!
Looking over the Wachau Valley towards Dürnstein - Source: Winekeller
Exploring the beautiful villages of the Wachau Valley
At the heart of the Wachau Valley along this amazing stretch of the River Danube, between the towns of Melk and Krems, are some beautiful wine villages that you just have to explore! Each one offers something different to see and experience and of course each one is home to some incredible Wachau wineries, just waiting for you to go and visit!
Going from east to west there is the village of Mautern an der Donau, right next to the Wachau/Kremstal border town of Krems, then you travel through the famous wine villages of Unterloiben and Oberloiben (the Loibens), home to some top global wine icons and on to historic Dürnstein with its famous blue Stiftskirche cloister tower and ancient castle ruins. (the topic of this article). The village of Rossatz sits across the Danube from Dürnstein then in a few minutes you arrive at the beautiful village of Weissenkirchen, the largest wine-growing community in the Wachau. Continue along the majestic Danube and you then arrive in beautiful Spitz and the Spitz Valley, or ‘Spitzer Graben’, a Danube tributary, home to some superb, higher altitude vineyards.
In this article we focus on historic Dürnstein and its famous wine village neighbours, Unterloiben and Oberloiben,
For more information about exploring the Wachau wine region, refer to these articles:
Visit Dürnstein
The small town of Dürnstein on the River Danube in Lower Austria, is one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the Wachau Valley region, with a fairytale-like setting and picturesque architecture, often depicted as the face of the Wachau.
Affectionately called ‘the pearl of the Wachau’, Dürnstein is known for its stunning Wachau vineyards and incredible wines as well as its abundant apricot orchards. In addition to its celebrated wines, wandering through Dürnstein you will encounter lots of products made from apricots, including liqueurs, jams, chocolates and much more!
‘Dürnstein’ was named after the castle overlooking the town and the River Danube - deriving from the German words for ‘dry’ and ‘rock’, reflecting the castle’s position high on the rock above.
The castle ruins overlooking the town below, with the old city walls and baroque tower- Source: Winekeller
Dürnstein history
Dürnstein came into being when the Kuenring family came to Austria from the Bavarian-Saxon region in the 11th century and took over land in Lower Austria. They were also appointed by The Tegernsee Monastery in Bavaria as bailiffs in the Wachau to guard over its possessions. (Note: Today Dürnstein is twinned with the Bavarian town of Tegernsee, on the shores of Lake Tegernsee).
They built the fortress castle high on the cliff overlooking the River Danube in 1140-45, which became famous in 1192/93, when the English King, Richard I (Richard the Lionheart), was held prisoner in the castle by order of Leopold V, Duke of Austria. The Kuenring family used some of Richard’s ransom money to further expand and to renovate the castle and the village of Dürnstein in the 13th and 14th centuries. The castle was destroyed in 1645.
For more about Dürnstein’s history and key dates, see here.
Dürnstein on the River Danube - Source: Winekeller
Dürnstein Abbey - Source: Winekeller
What to see in Dürnstein
When in Dürnstein, enjoy wandering around the beautiful and unique medieval town, with its lovely shops, restaurants and historical buildings. There is a single main street to explore and several alleyways and courtyards leading down to the Danube. Look out for the famous local bread rolls called ‘Wachauer Laberl’, made by Bäckerei Schmidl in Dürnstein - delicious with local meats, cheeses and of course wine!
Start at the ‘Krems Gate’ - the gateway to the heart of Dürnstein - a four storey, square gate tower from the 15th century. Here the city wall leads south to the Danube and north to the castle ruin.
The most iconic and remarkable building in this historic town is Dürnstein Abbey and its beautiful blue Stiftskirche Cloister Tower, a striking Baroque masterpiece right on the banks of the River Danube. You can visit the Abbey and enjoy regular exhibitions and a busy events calendar.
Dürnstein Town Hall dates back to 1547, located in a pretty courtyard in the centre of the town and if you walk to the end of the main street you will arrive at the ‘new castle’, a commanding structure built on the rocks overlooking the River Danube, which now operates as a hotel - The Hotel Schloss or SchlossHotel (see later).
The legend of Richard the Lionheart
The legend of Richard the Lionheart is strong in Dürnstein today and there are many references to this famous King of England and crusader throughout the town. In addition to walking up to the castle ruins on the hill, which takes about 20 minutes and offers superb views over Dürnstein, the Wachau Valley and the River Danube, you can follow the ‘Lionheart themed trail’. This walking trail takes you on a journey through the Middle Ages, where you can learn all about the legend of Richard the Lionheart and his famous troubadour friend, Blondel, who supposedly secured his release from prison in the castle. You also get to enjoy the beautiful nature and scenery of the Wachau Valley, with some superb views over the countryside and famous landmarks such as Göttweig Abbey (see later).
The ‘Loibens’ - Oberloiben and Unterloiben
The Wachau wine villages of Oberloiben (on right) and Unterloiben - Source: Winekeller
Dürnstein and the nearby ‘Loiben’ wine villages of Oberloiben and Unterloiben were merged into a single municipality in 1971.
You can walk from Dürnstein to Oberloiben and on to Unterloiben, by way of the river path or through the vineyards and past the French memorial landmark. Walking, it just takes 15-20 minutes.
Visit these beautiful, unique villages to enjoy the best of Wachau wineries, Wachau wines and traditional, local Austrian food (see later).
Dürnstein and Loiben wines
The Wachau Valley comprises an 18 miles stretch of vine-covered hillsides, some steeply terraced along the majestic River Danube, is known throughout the world for its top winemakers and top-rated dry (mostly), white wines.
The traditional Wachau grape is the white Wachau Grüner Veltliner, which thrives on the lower banks of the Danube, producing some amazing and distinctive wines, many of which age incredibly well. Wachau Riesling is also grown incredibly successfully, mainly on the higher, steeper slopes.
Since the mid-1980s, the Wachau winegrowers’ association “Vinea Wachau” has classified the Wachau dry white wines into three categories according to their natural alcohol content. Light wines up to 11.5% are called “Steinfeder”; wines from 11.5–12.5% are called “Federspiel” and powerful reserve wines (minimum 12.5%) are called “Smaragd”. (Learn more about Wachau wine classifications here).
Views from Loibenberg vineyard - Source: Winekeller
Views from the Kellerberg vineyard - Source: Winekeller
The unique Wachau geography and climate
It’s the soils and climate in the Wachau valley that makes the Wachau wines so special, along with the skill of the winemaker of course. Summers are typically hot and dry and winters severe and the cooling effects of the River Danube mean there are large differences between day and nighttime temperatures. The climate in the western Wachau tends to be somewhat cooler, producing fresh, elegant wines whereas at the eastern end of the Wachau, around the Loibens and Dürnstein, you can find more full-bodied and powerful wines due to warmer temperatures, but the cooling winds from the river mean the wines are still balanced.
Due to the geography each vineyard has its own unique micro-climate, enabling the winemakers to produce a broad range of different types and styles of wines.
Famous Wachau vineyards
In the Wachau there are some 150 officially named vineyard sites, many of them very small and producing low-yields, often leading to short supplies of these very popular wines. (the Wachau produces only 5% of Austria’s wine).
Many of these Wachau vineyards are steep and terraced, making them highly challenging to cultivate.
It’s true to say that the best vineyards in the Wachau Valley produce some of the world’s finest white wines with great ageing potential and there is a cluster of these top vineyards around Dürnstein and the Loiben villages.
The famous Loibenberg vineyard and to the left the Schütt vineyard - Source: Winekeller
Examples of these top Wachau vineyard sites include Kellerberg, described as one of the top vineyard sites in the world; Loibenberg, one of the largest and steepest single vineyard sites in the Wachau; Schütt (known for its world-class Rieslings) and Höhereck, just half a hectare on the high, rocky slope between Kellerberg and Loibenberg.
Dürnstein and Loiben wineries
Weingut Emmerich Knoll
Weingut Knoll is a family winery based in Unterloiben and one of Austria’s top producers of white wine, helping grow the Wachau’s reputation around the world as a supreme wine region. The Knoll family has been cultivating wine here since 1825 and today farm approximately 20 hectares of top vineyard sites in the Wachau (a third of which are steep terraces), including world-famous Kellerberg, Loibenberg, Pfaffenberg and Schütt vineyards.
Knoll wines are known for being clear, mineral, structured, balanced and powerful. They are also known by their distinctive bottle labels, depicting Pope St. Urban 1, bishop of Rome from 222-230. This label has adorned Knoll wine bottles since 1962 and is possibly Austria’s most famous bottle label.
Today Emmerich Snr (Emmi), wife Monika and their sons, Emmerich Jnr and August, run the winery together.
Note, Weingut Emmerich Knoll doesn’t have a website, but the wines are widely stocked. Contact us to arrange a tasting at Weingut Emmerich Knoll in Unterloiben.
At Weingut Emmerich Knoll - Source: Winekeller
Weingut Alzinger
Weingut Alzinger has been one of the superstars of the Wachau wine region since 1983. In the 1970s Leo Alzinger Snr set out on a path to make wines that focused on their origins and today Leo Alzinger Jnr continues that journey.
Weingut Alzinger produces award-winning Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines with grapes from top vineyard sites such as Loibenberg and Steinertal.
A redesign of the winery in 2017 also won an award for Alzinger, for "an exemplary structural development of the Wachau World Heritage Area". This is another great reason to visit Weingut Alzinger in Unterloiben - if you need another reason that is! Weingut Alzinger is also located in Unterloiben.
Weingut Tegernseerhof
The Weingut Tegernseerhof vineyards are located in the very best single vineyard sites of the Wachau wine region, for example Loibenberg, Kellerberg, Schütt and Steinertal.
Martin Mittelbach is the fifth generation of Mittelbachs to run the historical Tegernseerhof, an estate that dates back more than 1000 years. Despite the estate’s historical merit you couldn’t find a much more progressive winemaker with his own set of standards and way of thinking in this region. Martin took over the estate at a very young age and immediately changed the way things were done, including moving towards a dry style of wine. Today, you would be hard pressed to find a more dry and straight style in the Wachau. His wines are intense and focused and excel on every level - they stand tall next to any of the greatest producers in Austria.
We have known Martin for quite a few years now and used to import his wines - believe us, they are seriously good!! Weingut Tegernseerhof is located in the centre of Unterloiben, where they have a lovely courtyard and tasting room.
Weingut FX Pichler
FX Pichler in Oberloiben is a family-run winery with a history spanning back to 1898, a top Austrian wine producer with a reputation as a Grüner Veltliner specialist since Franz Pichler Snr began selecting his own clones in 1928. Franz Xaver (FX) took over at the estate in 1971 and propelled the winery to success domestically and internationally. Franz Xaver’s son Lucas took over winemaking in 1999 and assumed management of the whole estate in 2009.
Today, FX Pichler owns about 20 hectares of vineyards, almost half of which are planted on steep terraces and worked entirely by hand.
The sleek, modern FX Pichler winery sits in the middle of the vineyards just outside the village of Oberloiben and visitors are invited to make an appointment to taste the wines, (when there is stock left to taste!)
Weingut FX Pichler - Source: Winekeller
Domäne Wachau
Domäne Wachau is a cooperative for white wines and has developed into one of the most important wineries in Austria. With a history dating back to the 1930s, Domäne Wachau has become one of the finest examples of a successful cooperative, producing top quality, award-winning wines.
Domäne Wachau works with some 200 vignerons who cultivate their individual vineyard plots - less than 2 hectares on average - representing in total nearly one third of the area under vine in the Wachau wine region.
Today Domäne Wachau wine is sold around the world, especially its single vineyard wines from world-famous vineyards in Dürnstein like Loibenberg, and Kellerberg.
Domäne Wachau was the only Austrian wine estate to earn a spot in the top 50 of the ‘World’s Best Vineyards Awards 2024’. Ranked no. 33, alongside some of the world’s top estates, you can enjoy a range of tasting experiences here and a tour of the extensive cellars under the historic ‘Kellerschlössel’ building.
See here for more about Domäne Wachau (including the annual Wachau Music and Wine Festival)
Weingut Simon Gattinger
Weingut Simon Gattinger is a young winery, founded in 2017, but the family winemaking tradition in the region spans 4 generations. Simon wanted to make a mark in the Wachau and build something new. In 2022 he converted the historic cellar to build a modern 3 level operation and offers a variety of opportunities for visitors to taste the wines - either in the fabulous tasting room looking out over the Loibenberg vineyard, on the terrace in good weather, up in the vineyard which you can reach on foot or by golf cart, or even on a raft cruising down the Danube!
Weingut Simon Gattinger is the new kid on the block, with innovation and new ideas, but grounded in tradition and a razor focus on producing authentic, clear, precise wines.
Where to stay in and around Dürnstein:
For accommodation options in and around Dürnstein - see here.
We can also personally recommend:
Schloss Dürnstein - A 5 star hotel (and restaurant) in the heart of historic Dürnstein and part of the Relais & Chateaux group - top end budget.
Winzerhof Leonhartsberger - A completely different experience staying at a local winery (with its own ‘heuriger’) in Oberloiben. Note that there are only 3 rooms available.
Georgedlinger im Dinstlhof - A lovely guesthouse in Unterloiben, excellent value for money and amazing home-made apricot jam! 4 double rooms and 1 single room available.
Where to eat in Dürnstein and Unterloiben
We have enjoyed many fabulous, traditional meals in and around Dürnstein:
Enjoy superb local and traditional food at the Alter Klosterkeller, just at the entrance to the main street in Dürnstein, accompanied by excellent wines from Weingut Tergernseerhof (see earlier). When cooler, enjoy the friendly, cozy atmosphere inside, but in fine weather, sit outside amongst the vineyards, on the banks of the Danube - magical!
Experience a superb lunch or dinner at the beautiful Schloss Dürnstein overlooking the majestic River Danube below. We actually celebrated one of our wedding anniversaries here - what a great experience!
Visit the Wachauerstube in Unterloiben for incredible food, matched perfectly by incredible wines! Gerald Diemt, ex sommelier at top English restaurants, Cliveden House in Taplow and The Orrery in London, fulfilled his dream of owning and managing his own restaurant back home in Austria when he opened the Wachauerstube some years ago and has gone from strength to strength. Sit inside the traditional restaurant or on the beautiful terrace right in the heart of this famous wine village.
Other good options in Unterloiben include the Loibnerhof restaurant - owned by the Knoll family and just a few steps away from the Emmerich Knoll winery (see earlier) - great value for local, traditional food and the Heurigenkeller Graf - recognised as a “Top Heuriger” - sit in the romantic 300-year-old vaulted cellar or in the Mediterranean courtyard.
See here for other options for dining in and around Dürnstein.
Note that quite a few of the restaurants close on Mondays and Tuesdays, so look at the websites to check in advance - and make sure you try the traditional, local food, because it’s wonderful!
What to do around Dürnstein
Walking and Hiking
There are lots of options for local walks and hikes through the famous Wachau vineyards around Dürnstein and the Loiben villages, and along the Wachau Valley. See here for inspiration.
Dürnstein is also located on one of the 14 legs of the beautiful Wachau World Heritage Trail, a 180km high-altitude hiking trail, comprising the best in scenic trails through the Danube Valley and Wachau wine region.
Cycling
One of the best ways to explore the Wachau Valley, the River Danube, the beautiful villages and the famous vineyards, is by bike. See here for ideas about cycling in the Wachau.
Local ‘must-visit’ landmark sites
Visit local Wachau sites including the region’s spectacular monasteries, including Stift Göttweig and Melk Abbey.
River boat cruises
Of course, there is no better way to enjoy the Wachau’s stunning scenery than from the comfort of a boat on the River Danube. There is a boat stop in Dürnstein, from where you can hop on a river boat cruise, taking in the sights between the Wachau towns of Krems and Melk. See here for details about the Danube boat cruise services.
Visit Rossatz across the river
You can cross the Danube at Dürnstein by river ferry - in a traditional flat-bottomed boat - and visit the wine village of Rossatz. See here for ideas for walking in Rossatz. Also visit a Wachau winery here on the southern bank of the Danube - we can recommend Weingut Josef Fischer.
Local swimming pool oasis
If you’re looking to relax and have a break from sightseeing, visiting wineries and perhaps enjoying many of the walking trails, a perfect solution is to spend a day at the stunning open-air natural bathing pool, located between the entrance to the historic town of Dürnstein and the Loiben villages. The Kuenringer pool boasts a completely natural, organic bathing pool, providing a swimming and children’s area and beautiful lawns for relaxing and sun-bathing.
For more information, visit:
Conclusion
Dürnstein and the Loiben villages and vineyards is the natural capital of the Wachau and certainly lives up to its title, ‘Pearl of the Wachau’. As well as its fairytale setting on the River Danube and its historic buildings, this is a wine lover’s paradise, with some of the best vineyards and wineries in Austria, so make sure you plan to visit!
