Discover ‘Costieres de Nimes’ in Southern Rhône
Explore the most southern appellation of the Rhône Valley wine region, the beautiful towns and villages of southern France and the nature of the stunning Rhône Delta.
The famous pebbles in Costières de Nîmes (Château Mourgues Du Grès) - Source: Wine Keller
Not only can you experience some fabulous wines in the Costières de Nîmes wine region in southern France - robust, juicy wines defined by the hot, Mediterranean climate - there is so much more to explore and enjoy. West of Avignon you enter the département of Gard, with its beautiful ancient Roman cities of Arles and Nîmes and on into the natural wonder that is the Camargue - 1500 sq km of Rhône Delta and home to incredible landscapes, coastline and wildlife.
This is definitely an opportunity to combine wine tourism with some of the best tourist sights and experiences that France has to offer.
We based ourselves in the amazing Roman city of Arles for a few nights and took the opportunity to visit the sights, as well as one of the top French wineries in Costières de Nîmes, Château Mourgues Du Grès.
The famous flamingoes of the Rhône Delta’s Camargue region - Source: Wine Keller
Costieres de Nimes AOC
In the far south-west of France’s southern Rhône region, bordering in the west with the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, wine lovers have the opportunity to discover some amazing Mediterranean-influenced wines.
The Costières de Nîmes AOC extends to the south and east of the town of Nîmes in the Gard region and out towards the Roman town of Arles, in the Bouches-du-Rhône region, where the rivers Rhône, Gard and Durance meet before heading out to the Mediterranean. This area is also known as the Rhône Delta.
There are probably not many who are aware of Costières de Nîmes wines - but - they come highly recommended! According to wine writer and critic Robert Parker, ‘I continue to love Costières de Nîmes whites and these wines must be one of the best kept secrets in the world.’
Costieres de Nimes Terroir
The vineyards of Costières de Nîmes have a long history, dating back to the time of the Ancient Greeks and this southern Rhône region has a few very distinctive features:
The main one is that the vines are planted on raised terraces of pebbles, known locally as ‘Grès’, deposited by the Rhône and Durance rivers many, many years ago. These pebbles, which range from pale yellow to dark red in colour, drain easily and despite the hot weather conditions the vines thrive, with deep roots reaching the clay soils below. In certain areas, these pebbles are very large and are known as ‘Galets’. These pebbles serve to protect the soil from evaporation and add a special ‘minerality’ and freshness to the flavour of the wines.
The hot, sunny, dry Mediterranean climate here is tempered by the cooling influences of the Mediterranean sea as well as the northern ‘Mistral’ winds. There are a few hilly slopes, but the region is generally quite flat.
Dry, low-lying, scrubland, typical of southern French landscapes, called "Garrigue", are evident in the eastern parts of the region. This land is less good for vine-growing, but good for fragrant herbs such as lavender, thyme and rosemary.
Costieres de Nimes Wines
Typical Southern Rhône grape varietals thrive in the Costières de Nîmes region and red and rosé wines dominate, with a small representation of white. The chief grapes permitted for red and rosé wines are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, but other varietals can be blended. For white wines, the main grapes are Grenache blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne. For more detail see here.
Increasingly more vineyards and wines in Costières de Nîmes are classified as organic and/or biodynamic.
Our visit to Château Mourgues Du Grès
We researched Costières de Nîmes wineries and were drawn to visiting Château Mourgues Du Grès for several reasons:
Certified organic and and biodynamic
Excellent reputation amongst wine critics
Wines available in the UK via an importer focused on ‘natural wines’
Committed to wine tourism
Owner and winemaker François Collard, along with his lovely wife Anne, manages this 65 hectare estate of vineyards, orchards and garrigue shrubland, bottling their first wines in 1993. Their focus is producing authentic, precise, pure wines which honestly reflect the amazing Mediterranean climate and terroir - in as natural a way as possible, with minimum intervention. Organic certification was achieved in 2014 and since 2015, the winemaking process doesn’t include the addition of any sulphur. Biodynamic certification followed in 2020.
The Château Mourgues Du Grès motto is ‘Sine sole Nihil’ - translated as ‘Nothing without Sunshine’, celebrating the amazing Mediterranean climate which enables their precious grapes to flourish and reach optimal ripeness.
Our Château Mourgues Du Grès wine tasting
We were met by the winemaker’s wife Anne, who proceeded to introduce 9 stunning wines to us, representing their range of white, red and rosé wines, ranging from easy-drinking, enjoy-now wines, to wines of greater depth, power and complexity.
We started with the refreshing, citrussy, mineralic white Galets Dorés, made from Roussanne, Grenache blanc and Vermentino, followed by the more powerful Terre d’Argence, (mainly Viognier), ideal for pairing with fish, poultry and Asian dishes. The last white was the Capitelle Blanc, based mainly on Grenache blanc and wonderfully fresh, round, juicy, with a slightly salty tang - delicious!
The tasting progressed with a lovely rosé, Capitelle Rosé, perfect for matching with Summer dishes, then onto our first red the Mourges du Grès, a delicious Syrah and Mourvèdre blend. This was followed by the Terre de Feu red, made from 60 year old Grenache vines, blended with Carignan and Syrah. This wine, translated as ‘land of fire’ is only produced for the hottest of vintages and can be stored for 5-7 years.
We finished the tasting with 3 more reds, the Terre d’Argence Rouge, the Capitelle Rouge and finally the fabulous Equinox, a wine produced for harmony not power. Made from low yield, old vines, with equal proportions of old Syrah and Grenache, mixed with some Carignan and aged in casks - perfect to keep for up to 10 years.
Wow, what a tasting! We were honestly seriously impressed with these wines - powerful yes, but balanced and fresh, with lots of delicious mineral and fruit flavours. We can seriously recommend them and bought a few back home with us, including some magnums!
Tour and picnic in the vineyards
Following our tasting, Anne took us up into the vineyards where we enjoyed taking a close look at the vines and the very special pebbles which makes these wines so unique. We could also experience walking through the vineyards which are open for everyone to enjoy.
We were soon joined by Anne’s husband and winemaker François and were invited to join them for a charming picnic amongst the vines, consisting of amazing local fruits, vegetables, patés, cheeses and the famous ‘brandade de Morue de Nîmes, a wonderful purée of salt cod - delicious spread on fresh French baguette!
What an evening and what an experience - purley magical - up until the point the mosquitos decided to pay us a visit and forced us to retreat back inside! We loved the wines, yes, but so enjoyed experiencing this magical place and hearing first-hand from François and Anne how a huge respect for nature and the land drives everything they do.
Where to find Château Mourgues Du Grès
Château Mourgues Du Grès is located just outside the ancient town of Beaucaire in the north-west of the Costière de Nîmes wine region and centred between the popular towns of Arles, Nîmes and Avignon.
The estate is open to visitors on weekdays and Saturday mornings for wine tastings and wine tours. Booking is recommended. You can also simply walk or cycle through the vineyards, discovering lots about local fauna and flora, history and geology, as well as the vines!
Where to find Château Mourgues Du Grès wines
Some of Château Mourgues Du Grès wines can be purchased via their importer in the UK - Les Caves de Pyrene - a wine importer focused on the types of wines and the type of winemakers we love and support - typified by Château Mourgues Du Grès.
From their website: ‘We believe in the importance of ‘terroir’, indigenous grapes, diversity and organic viticulture. Above all, wines of character. We champion small, independent winemakers, the hardy souls who put their love and life’s work into the bottle to deliver a unique and inspiring product.’
Other wineries to visit in Costieres de Nimes
Château Montfrin (organic)
Terre des Chardons (biodynamic)
Doms de la Patience (organic)
Tips for visiting Costières de Nîmes in southern France
The southern Rhône Valley and Costières de Nîmes is in the popular part of southern France known by the French as ‘le Midi’. With the Mediterranean coastline and its mountainous hinterland, the region of Languedoc Roussillon to the west of the Rhône and to the east, the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, this is a perfect location from which to explore further.
Exploring the ancient Roman city of Arles - in the Place de la Republique - Source: Wine Keller
With its famous gastronomy, its relaxed way of life, its history and culture, its beautiful landscapes and scenery and of course the wonderful climate, there’s so much on offer here, for everyone.
Where to stay to explore Costières de Nîmes
We based ourselves in the wonderful ancient Roman city of Arles, but another excellent base would be Nîmes, which is in the heart of the Costières de Nîmes wine region. We stayed in an excellent Airbnb just outside the old city walls of Arles, but there are lots of options - see some ideas for accommodation in Arles and Nîmes.
Where to visit around the Costières de Nîmes wine region
There is just so much to see in this part of southern France - here are some places which need to be top of your list!
Exploring Nîmes
West of the Rhône in the region of Languedoc, is the historic Roman city of Nîmes, capital city of the Gard department and home to the finest Roman remains in France. Visit the famous ‘arène de Nîmes’ - the best conserved Roman amphitheatre in the world and although 2000 years old, still used for events today. This is one of three large Roman amphitheatres in the south of France.
Also a must to see in Nîmes, is Maison Carrée, the best preserved Roman temple anywhere in the world. Take time to explore this beautiful city’s incredible history and wander through its lovely old town and ancient city centre.
Pont du Gard
Travel just 10km northeast of Nîmes to visit the famous Pont du Gard, one of the finest remaining Roman aqueducts, built by the Romans to bring water to the city.
Things to do Arles
Make sure you take time out to visit Arles and marvel at its 2500 years of history! Listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, more than 100 of its Roman and Romanesque buildings and ruins in the preserved historic centre are listed as ‘Historic Monuments’.
Dominating the historic centre is the Roman amphitheatre - take time to visit this and then explore the lovely old streets radiating out from this amazing and ancient building. Also visit the Roman theatre.
As a city of art, culture and history you can’t escape the presence and influences of the many famous painters who worked and lived in Arles, captivated by its perfect Mediterranean light. The most famous is Vincent Van Gogh who arrived in Arles in February 1988, but Pablo Picasso and Paul Gauguin were also famous visitors/residents. Arles is also considered the capital of Provençal culture - look out for the fabulous Saturday market and the host of festivals and cultural events.
See here for lots of ideas about what more to do, see and experience in beautiful Arles!
Visit the Camargue Nature Reserve
Arles lies just on the edge of the Rhône Delta and the famous Camargue nature reserve. One of our most favourite places - why you may ask?? Well it has everything!! 1500 sq km of amazing nature and landscapes, flamingoes and amazing birdlife, wild, white Camargue horses, cowboys, ranches, black bulls, beautiful beaches and coastline, fascinating history, local traditions and festivals, fabulous food including the famous red rice and salt - oh and of course, not bad rosé wine too!
This is one of Europe’s major wetlands and If you love bird-watching, then this is for you - or how about horse-riding in the Camargue or spending some time on a real ranch?
The Camargue is a fascinating and beautiful region and really worth visiting. It has such a laid-back and relaxed atmosphere. We enjoyed spending time on its beautiful beaches and strolling around its capital, Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, right on the Mediterranean and famous for its biblical legends and annual gypsy pilgrimage held each May. Visit its famous 9th century church, Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer.
Also take time out to visit the incredible walled city of Aigues Mortes. Once a significant medieval Mediterranean port, now situated 5 miles inland on the salty marshes of the western Camargue. Aigues-Mortes is one of the finest walled cities in France and it makes for a really enjoyable couple of hours to stroll through its lovely streets and enjoy a meal or a drink in its main square.
Visit historic Beaucaire and Bellegarde
If you plan to visit Château Mourgues Du Grès, then make sure you spend some time in the nearby historic town of Beaucaire. Situated on the River Rhône and the Canal du Rhône the historical town centre is dominated by a medieval castle, built in the 11th century. Wander round the ancient streets and enjoy a coffee in the beautiful Place de la République or the Place Georges Clémenceau.
Close by is the pretty town of Bellgarde - if you like nature and aromatic plants and olis, make sure to visit the plant farm and perfume distillery ‘Un Mas en Provence’.
Here are some local recommendations for Bellgarde and Beaucaire from Château Mourgues Du Grès.
Traditional food and local dishes
This may be the southern Rhône Valley wine region, but in terms of cultural influence, traditions and gastronomy, it’s totally Provence!
Provençal cuisine is based on Mediterranean influences and superb local ingredients such as fresh fish and shellfish, anchovies, garlic, capers, olives, tomatoes, red peppers, herbs, courgettes/zucchini, aubergines /eggplants and lamb.
Flavours and colours are bold and dishes are meant to be enjoyed outside with a chilled glass of Rosé de Provence! See here for some typical Provençal dishes!
Camargue cuisine is similar to Provençal, but includes other specific local ingredients such as the wonderful Camargue rice, Camargue ‘fleur de sel’ sea salt, shellfish, eel, goats cheese and beef. Perhaps a little bit more rustic, but just as delicious in our humble opinion!
A typical Camargue dish - goats cheese, anchovies, tomatoes & olive paste
Conclusion and personal highlights
We love the South of France and were delighted to have been able to explore this little-known wine region, Costière de Nîmes. It’s hard to pinpoint a highlight but probably, if we had to choose, our picnic in the vineyards at Château Mourgues du Grès was an amazing experience. To see and fully experience the beauty of this region, drinking some amazing wine, with the winemaker and enjoying some simple, but delicious local food, as the sun was setting over the vineyards, is a memory we will treasure!
