Discover the Provencal wines of the Var in France
Visit the Var region in France, in the heart of Provence, where you can discover some of the oldest South of France vineyards and explore some of the best resorts in the French Riviera!
Château des Garcinières in Cogolin, Var - Source: Wine Keller
Not many people have heard of the Var region in Provence, France, but it is right in the middle of some of the most spectacular scenery and most famous tourist resorts in the world - and it produces some very good wines too!
There’s something for everyone in this beautiful French region, including very popular tourist resorts like St Tropez, but there’s so much more to explore. I actually spent 6 months working here in travel and tourism when I was 19 and completely fell in love with it. I’ve been back several times since, including earlier this year when we revisited favourite haunts and tasted some fabulous wines.
Read all about our recent wine tasting in the Var, with lots of information, advice and tips to help you plan your own wine holiday or wine tour there!
Where is ‘le Var’, France?
The southern French region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur consists of 6 départements, one being ‘le Var’. This beautiful region, blessed with Mediterranean beaches and coastline, traditional Provençal hilltop, perched villages, rugged mountains, valleys and creeks, sits in the heart of Provence and the heart of the French Riviera.
More specifically the Var region extends from west of Toulon on the coast to just east of Fréjus and then inland (the Haut Var), where it borders with the Alpes de Haute-Provence region along the Verdon River and the stunning Gorges du Verdon - see later.
What is considered the French Riviera?
The French Riviera, also known as the Côte d’Azur, encompasses the French départments of the Var and Alpes-Maritimes, and includes the popular tourist resorts of Monaco, Nice, Cannes, Antibes, St Tropez and Fréjus. Where it actually starts and stops is not really clear, but a good definition seems to be that it stretches 200km from Menton, close to the Italian border, to the tourist and wine town of Bandol.
However what is clear, is that it is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations - and for good reason! The love affair with the French Riviera goes back to the 18th century when the English aristocracy first discovered the merits of its mild winters, putting this part of Europe on the tourist map! In fact, the main street in Nice was named after the English - The ‘Promenade des Anglais’ - and it remains so today!
Map of the French Riviera and the Var region
Why visit the Var in France?
The Var has a wonderfully mild year-round climate, with lots of sunshine and it provides a great base to explore beautiful Provence as well as the coastline and resorts of the French Riviera. This region of southern France and Provence is wonderfully diverse:
Var Provence and Var French Riviera
The Var is very much ‘Provençal’, with its hilltop villages, ancient traditions, Provençal cuisine, Provençal markets, olive trees and vineyards and of course its Provençal rosé wine! However, the Var is also very much ‘French Riviera’, with its beautiful ‘azur’ blue, clear Mediterranean seas, gorgeous tree lined coves and sweeping bays, glitzy resorts with their huge yacht-filled marinas.
The Var tends to be a bit less crowded and hectic than other parts of the French Riviera, for example around Cannes, Nice and Monaco, however an exception to this is certainly St Tropez!
The Var coastline, islands, natural parks and mountain ranges
The Var is the second most wooded French département and you can enjoy fabulous walks and hikes here, both along the coast and in the more rugged hinterland, with its pine forests, canyons, mountain ranges and gorges.
The Var is blessed with three mountain ranges to explore, with incredible landscapes and scenery, as well as three beautiful islands, Les Isles d’Hyères, which form the Port Cros National Park, a recognised area of outstanding beauty and biodiversity.
See later for more information about the best places to visit in the Var.
Var wines
The Var is actually the largest global producer - and consumer - of rosé wines, so unsurprisingly, rosé is the main style of wine produced here, however some very good whites and reds are also produced. There is evidence of vineyards existing in the Var dating back 2600 years, making these the oldest vineyards in France!
Provençal Rosé wines - Château des Garcinières - Source: Wine Keller
Var wine appellations
There are 3 regional wine appellations in the Var - or PDOs (Protected Designation of Origin):
Var Côtes de Provence wines:
Côtes de Provence wines constitute the majority of wines produced in the Var and are made from primarily Cinsault and Grenache grapes. Due to the variety of terroir in the large Côtes de Provence PDO, there are 5 sub designated areas: Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, Côtes de Provence Fréjus, Côtes de Provence La Londe, Côtes de Provence Pierrefeu and Côtes de Provence Notre Dames des Anges.
You can learn more about Côtes de Provence wines at the The Côtes de Provence Maison des Vins Arcs-sur-Argens.
Var Côteaux Varois wines:
Côteaux Varois wines are produced in inland Var on the hillsides in the heart of ‘limestone Provence’ around the pretty town of Brignoles. A cooler, more continental climate here, the vines grow at 600-1000 metres altitude. Along with Provençal staples Cinsault and Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah grape varieties are also grown. Over 90% of Côteaux Varois wines produced are rosé.
Visit the Côteaux Varois Maison des Vins to learn more about this Provençal appellation in the Royal Abbaye de La Celle near Brignoles.
Var Bandol wines:
Bandol wines are produced around the coastal town of the same name - famous for its strong, tannic reds, based on the Mourvèdre grape variety. A small Var wine appellation, but well-respected for its reds especially.
Var regional wines
In addition to the PDO wines, regional wines are produced under the PGI Protected Geographical Indication, Vin du Pays Var.
Var vineyards and wine tourism
Var, Provence vineyards - Château des Garcinières - Source: Wine Keller
There are close to 400 vineyards in the Var, including large well-known estates, smaller, family-run vineyards and large co-operatives.
Wine tourism is well developed in the Var with vineyards open to the public and winemakers keen to share their wines, their passion and their stories with visitors! Many also offer accommodation and food.
See ideas here for wine tourism options and wine-related events in the Var.
A great way to explore Var vineyards and wine estates is to follow a designated Provence wine Route. See here for details and ideas!
Our visit to the wine estate of Château des Garcinières
We recently visited the Var and spent a wonderful couple of hours at a top, organic Var vineyard called Château des Garcinières, located in Cogolin, in the Gulf of Saint Tropez.
About Château des Garcinières
The Var wine estate Château des Garcinières has been owned and managed by the Valentin family since 1898. Today, 4th generation owner and winemaker, Stéphanie Valentin Bonnant, farms 20 hectares of PDO Côtes de Provence south-facing vineyards and is proud to follow environmentally-friendly, organic farming and winemaking practices.
The beautiful Provençal family château, standing proud in the middle of vineyards and at the end of a stunning tree-lined driveway, dates back to 1748 and is today used for events.
Château des Garcinières wines
Château des Garcinières produces rosé, white and red wines, mostly PDO Côtes de Provence, with a small amount of Vin du Pays Var.
The rosés are made from Cinsault and Grenache grapes, the whites from Vermentino, or Rolle as it’s known in France and the reds from Syrah and Grenache. They produce 2 ranges, the ‘Traditional Cuvée’ range and the ‘Cuvée du Prieuré range - just rosé and red and made with grapes from older vines.
Our wine tasting at Château des Garcinières
Stéphanie very kindly took time out to show us round the estate, including the vineyards and the wine cellars and then offered 5 wines for tasting in the lovely shop/wine tasting room.
We tasted the 3 white, rosé and red traditional cuvée wines as well as the 2019 Cuvée de Prieuré rosé - a grenache/Syrah blend and the 2019 Cuvée de Prieuré Rouge - 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, aged for 6 months in oak.
We were really impressed with all of the wines and bought some to take home. We also couldn’t resist buying some local Tapenade and olive oil - when in Provence and all that…!
Other wineries to visit in the Var
There are many vineyards and wine estates to discover in this beautiful French wine region - here are a few below:
Domaine Bunan - 170+ acres of organically and biodynamically-grown vines in Bandol
Château La Gordonne - top Côtes de Provence producer
Domaine St-André de Figuière - organic producer, whose vineyards look over the ‘Isles d’Or’
Château Mentone - Organic wine estate in the Haut Var, between the Verdon river and Mediterranean coast
Château Font du Broc - Organic wine estate in the heart of the Estérel Hills and Gulf of Saint-Tropez
Château Léoube, close to the shores of beautiful Bormes-les-Mimosas
Château Saint-Roux - organic wine estate and accommodation in the Massif des Maures
Var Travel Guide
In addition to exploring the many vineyards of the Var in France, there are so many other amazing sights and places to discover - you are really spoiled for choice!
Within the Var region, here are just a few of the fabulous places we would personally recommend you visit:
The Gulf of St Tropez
Let’s start with the famous Gulf of St Tropez, sitting at the heart of the Var region and stretching from the busy seaside town of Sainte Maxime round to Ramatuelle.
The Gulf of St.Tropez from the village of Gassin
The beaches:
If you’re looking for gorgeous beaches then this is the place to be! There are very busy beaches and beaches with celebrity status, for example Pampelonne Beach, but you can also find beautiful rocky and sandy coves and quieter beaches around the Gulf of St Tropez, for example around the resort of Cavalaire-sur-Mer, the smaller, peaceful village of La Croix Valmer and Ramatuelle, the lovely hillside village surrounded by sea, woods and vineyards.
On some beaches you will need to pay to hire a sun-bed (un matelat), but there are many where it’s still free and open for public access.
The famous resorts:
Visit the lively town of Sainte Maxime, where there’s something for everyone and lots of great restaurants.
Then of course you just have to spend some time in St Tropez, ‘the pearl of the Mediterranean’, a world-famous celebrity hot-spot but also a historic and charming fishing port. Wander its tiny streets, window shop a bit, wander round the port and be amazed by the sheer size of the yachts, but above all, just stop a while, grab a beer, a coffee or a glass of wine and just people-watch! Ideally do this at the famous ‘Café Sénéquier’ - a St Tropez institution!
A couple of words of caution:
There is only one road running round the Gulf of St Tropez and it gets incredibly busy in the Summer, especially on market days (see below). A good tip is to travel across the bay by ferry boat to avoid the traffic! All of the key resorts are linked by a ferry service.
St Tropez especially is VERY expensive! Enjoy a drink there but you may want to make it last!!
The villages
As well as the larger, fashionable resorts, you’d be making a mistake to miss out visiting the smaller villages in the Gulf of St Tropez, which as well as being incredibly beautiful are much more ‘Provençal’.
Explore the hilltop village of Gassin, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France and offering a fabulous view over the Mediterranean, the Gulf of St Tropez, the Massif des Maures and a maze of vineyards below.
Also make time for the village of Grimaud, with its architectural heritage and mediaeval ruins - and then call into the ‘Cité Lacustre’ (‘Lakeside Town’ - more like sea than lake!) of Port-Grimaud. Modelled on Venice, with its canals, tiny bridges, colourful houses, inviting restaurants, lovely shops and pretty squares, it’s definitely worth a stop for a wander round and a drink or meal. Port Grimaud is undeniably touristy - but it manages to retain a Provençal style and traditional atmosphere!
The ‘Golden’ islands
The Isles d’Or are aptly named! If you have the time, try to visit the archipelago of 3 islands, Port-Cros, Porquerolles and Levant, just off the coast of Hyères and Toulon, which are in fact a protected National Park. The trip is rewarded by wonderful scenery, incredible nature, pine forests, sparkling blue, clear waters and great beaches, some of which are nudist so be aware!!
The best villages in the Var
Nothing typifies Provence more than its beautiful villages. We’ve talked about Gassin, Grimaud and Ramatuelle, but explore further away from the Gulf of St Tropez and there are many other beautiful, Provençal villages to discover!
Try Bormes-les-Mimosa, one of the most beautiful ‘Villages Fleuris’ in France, famous for the abundance of - yes you guessed it - mimosa blossoms in Spring, but also a lovely hillside village with great beaches too!
Visit the ancient and traditional village of Cotignac and explore its famous caves and try not to miss Seillans, another charming hilltop village and another one of ‘the most beautiful villages in France’!
See here for other ideas of villages to explore!
The Massifs des Maures, de l’Estéral, de Sainte Baume
If you fancy a change from the beach, the towns and villages, there are plenty of opportunities for walking, hiking and other sports and activities in the amazing and varied Var countryside .
The Massif des Maures stretches about 60km along the Var coast (the ‘Côte des Maures’) and is one of the oldest and wildest landscapes in Provence. It's famous for its dark green oak forests and chestnut trees.
The Massif de l’Estérel rises up just north of Fréjus and features imposing, red, jagged rocks and cliffs majestically falling into the sea, forming the ‘Côte de l’Estérel’.
The Massif de la Sainte Baume, a huge limestone mass, lies more inland, west of Brignoles and extends for about 14km, reaching up to 1100m high. Covered in ancient forest it is not only a place of incredible beauty and nature, it is a famous pilgrimage site and is considered one of the ‘sacred mountains’ of Provence, containing a cave which apparently provided the final home for Saint Mary Magdalene (‘baume’ is the ancient Provençal word for ‘cave’). Visit St Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume where Mary Magdelene is said to have been buried in its famous St. Madeleine Basilica.
Massif de la Sainte Baume, Var, Provence
The Gorges du Verdon and Verdon Regional Natural Park
There are so many places to mention but we would finally like to include the majestic, awe-inspiring Gorges Du Verdon.
In the Haut Var and technically on the Var’s border with the region of Alpes de Haute-Provence, the Verdon Grand Canyon is a ‘unique site’ in France. The incredibly deep, tree-covered, limestone gorge (up to 700m deep), with the beautiful green Verdon river snaking through it, can be visited by canoe or pedalo, by foot and also by car.
I have had the incredible good fortune to drive through the canyon many times whilst working as a travel guide in France and it never ceased to impress and captivate. Take time to drive round the canyon - the south rim is more impressive (and more winding roads!) than the north rim - and take time to stop in some of the beautiful villages along the route.
Explore the Verdon Regional Natural Park and the beautiful Lac du Sainte Croix at the start of the canyon. This is an amazing place to explore the beauty of nature and to indulge in some fun sport and leisure activities - please don’t miss it!!
The best time to visit the French Riviera and the Var
Late Spring and early Autumn are the most ideal times to visit the French Riviera and the Var. June and September are perfect! July and August are very hot and VERY busy - be warned!!
Getting to the Var
The Var is well serviced by transportation links - both to and getting around the Var.
Where to stay in the Var
Here are some ideas for accommodation in the Var.
Traditional Provencal food and local dishes
Provençal food is central to Provençal culture and daily life and the Var region is very typical of Provence.
The cuisine of Provence is based on Mediterranean influences and superb local ingredients such as fresh fish, shellfish and anchovies, amazing vegetables including garlic, capers, olives, tomatoes, red peppers, courgettes/zucchini, aubergines /eggplants, sumptuous fruits including melons, apricots, strawberries and peaches, meats especially lamb and goat, pork and wild boar dried sausages (saucissons) and flavoursome herbs, such as thyme, lavender and rosemary.
Here are some traditional Provençal recipes to try!
Make sure you experience and enjoy local produce like the olive oil, honey, figs, chestnuts, mimosa - and the local delicacy, found in the Haut Var, truffles.
Provençal markets
Take the opportunity to soak up the atmosphere and try some local Provençal food at the many Provençal markets. They are normally very popular and busy, but great fun! Each town and village will have a weekly market, or even twice a week. The largest one in the Var is the Saturday market in St Tropez.
For more information about the Var, visit the local tourist offices here.
Conclusion and personal highlights
The Var is a very special place - yes it can be very crowded in the Summer months - but look beyond that, or visit in the quieter months and you will experience the traditions and flavours of Provence, with a sprinkling of French Riviera and Côte d’Azur glamour! For food, wine, culture, art, history, landscapes, beach and countryside - it has the lot! I have been amazed over the years that the Var hasn’t really changed that much, despite global tourism and it remains up there as one of our favourite places.
