Banyuls & Collioure Roussillon wines on the Côte Vermeille
Spend time exploring the southern Roussillon vineyards between the stunning Mediterranean coastline & the foothills of the Pyrenees
The Collioure & Banyuls vineyards at Les Clos de Paulilles - Source: Wine Keller
If you’re like us and you love the sun, the mountains and the Mediterranean and of course great wines and great food, then this is for you!!
We were fortunate enough to spend a few days on the south-west coast of France and were keen to explore the Banyuls and Collioure vineyards of the Roussillon wine region. I didn’t know what to expect to be honest, being more familiar with the southern French vineyards of Provence than Roussillon, but Juergen had been here before, albeit many years ago - and was keen to return! I’m so glad we did! I fell in love with this region - the reality is every bit as amazing as the photos so do try to visit this special part of France! Hopefully this will help to inspire you!
Where is France’s Côte Vermeille?
The Côte Vermeille, translated as "vermilion coast", is in the French départment of Pyrénées-Orientales on the Mediterranean Coast of south-west France, near the border with Spain. The Côte Vermeille stretches from the town of Argelès-sur-Mer to the border village of Cerbère and encompasses a fabulous stretch of Mediterranean coast, incredibly beautiful coves and beaches, pretty ports and villages and vineyards stretched out on terraces clinging to mountain sides. This is an area which attracted many renowned artists, due to the amazing natural light and colours, so it’s a magnet today for wine lovers and food lovers as well as art and culture lovers!
Looking over Port-Vendres on the Côte Vermeille - Source: wine Keller
The pretty fishing port of Collioure & Fort Saint Elme - Source: Wine Keller
Catalan country
With its proximity to Spain, inhabitants of this region consider themselves Catalans. This is reflected in the local cuisine, the local festivals and traditions, the local dialect spoken and the distinctive Catalan boats with their yellow and red-striped banners.
France’s Occitanie region
The Côte Vermeille is in the region of Occitanie, which basically takes up most of south-west France. Occitanie was formed fairly recently, in 2016, by the joining of the 2 regions of Midi-Pyrénées and Languedoc-Roussillon together and is now one of Europe's top tourist destinations. This is easily justified - let’s start with the fact that the sun shines pretty much every day, it has not only the Mediterranean coast, but also the mountains, the major cities of Toulouse and Montpellier and then there’s the endless countryside, with picturesque villages and protected natural landscapes.
Occitanie is also the biggest wine-making region in the world, accounting for 36% of all France's wine - and it's the top French wine region for organic wine.
The Roussillon French wine region
The Roussillon wine region is popularly included as part of the much bigger Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, but it is a highly individual area, with a patchwork of different terroirs, producing some excellent, distinctive wines. It has an extremely varied landscape and a hot, sunny climate with limited rainfall that is ideal for growing vines.
In terms of its geography, Roussillon it is shaped like an amphitheatre, open to the Mediterranean Sea to the East and surrounded by three mountain ranges: the Corbières to the North, the Pyrenees with the Mont Canigou to the West and the Albères to the South. Three rivers run through the region, the Agly, the Têt and the Tech.
Roussillon wines
Roussillon vineyards on the Côte Vermeille - source: Wine Keller
Roussillon produces dry still wines as well as at least 80% of French Vins Doux Naturels (Fortified Sweet Wines), from over 20 different grape varieties. Roussillon is France’s most committed region in terms of organic viticulture and biodynamic practices.
Some Roussillon vineyards are the hottest and driest in France and as such the harvest tends to be as early as mid August.
Roussillon wine appellations:
In summary see below - but for more detail see here.
IGPs (Indication Géographique Protégée):
IGP Côtes Catalanes, IGP Côte Vermeille and IGP d’Oc,
AOPs (Appellation d’Origine Protégée):
AOP Languedoc, AOP Languedoc-Roussillon and 9 specific certified AOPs for the still wines, including AOP Collioure (white, rosé, red),AOP Côtes du Roussillon (white, rosé, red), AOP Côtes du Roussillon/AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages (red) and AOP Maury Sec (red).
There are also 5 AOPs for the fortified ‘Vins Doux Naturels’: AOP Rivesaltes, AOP Maury, AOP Banyuls, AOP Banyuls Grand Cru, AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes.
AOP Collioure and AOP Banyuls Wines
The dry wines of AOP Collioure and the special Vins Doux Naturels of AOP Banyuls are made in the vineyards of the stunning Côte Vermeille, where they are bathed in almost constant sunshine and cling to the mountain slopes as they fall away to the Mediterranean. The small bush vines are often planted on terraces, with their roots deep in the dry schist and limestone ground - ground which looks too harsh for them to survive, but is actually perfect for producing concentrated fruit and excellent wines. There is very little mechanical involvement here due to the terraces and a strong focus on organic farming and biodynamic processes.
In addition to the hot, sunny climate, the hot, dry Tramontane winds help ripen the grapes and the cooling winds from the sea give the white and rosé wines a wonderful saline flavour.
The mountains and Banyuls vineyards above the coast and Banyuls-sur-Mer - Source: Wine Keller
Collioure wines
Collioure dry wines are mostly red, from Grenache grapes, but also Syrah and Mourvèdre and are more Spanish in character, than French. A deep crimson colour, with strong fruit and spicy aromas and robust levels of alcohol. There are also white Collioure wines, made mainly from Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris and some rosé wines, made from the same red grape varieties, also with some Carignan.
The Collioure wines come from the same grapes and same vines as the Banyuls wines, but they are always picked earlier.
Banyuls wine - Vins Doux Naturels
The grapes which go on to become Banyuls wine are left on the vine for longer, usually until mid-October, until they become almost shrivelled like raisins, which helps to concentrate and intensify the deep fruit flavours.
AOP Banyuls and AOP Banyuls Grand Cru are France’s finest Vins Doux Naturels, which aren’t sweet wines, as the name suggests, but fortified wines, where the natural fermentation process is halted through the addition of alcohol (as for Port wine).
Banyuls wines are made predominantly from Grenache noir grapes. In fact Grenache Noir must constitute at least 50% of a Banyuls and 75% of a Banyuls Grand Cru wine. The eventual style of a Banyuls wine - and how concentrated the red fruit flavour is - is dictated by the ageing process, ie how long it is aged, as well as how it is aged, either in aged wooden casks, the bottle or in ‘bonbonnes’, bulbous shaped bottles which are often stored outside, in the full glare of the Mediterranean sun.
Similar to some styles of Port wine, Banyuls wine can match very well with chocolate and chocolate-based desserts.
The Collioure & Banyuls wine route
By far the best way to appreciate the Collioure and Banyuls vineyards, is to take some time out to drive the spectacular Côte Vermeille wine route.
Map of La Côte Vermeille vineyards from the Wine Route
If you were to drive the route in its entirety it would mean a 50km round trip between Collioure and Cerbère on the Spanish border, driving one way on the lower main ‘Corniche’ road and the other higher up the mountain side on the D86 road.
The Corniche road is full of twists and turns, giving you fabulous views of the vineyards, as well as the bays and coves along the coast, whereas the higher road offers stunning vistas across the mountains and down to the Mediterranean. This road is also full of twists and turns and you don’t get out of low gear, but wow - the views are just incredible!
We completed the wine route from Collioure to Banyuls-sur-Mer along the Corniche road and then returned via the higher road. It was a highlight of our trip and we managed to complete it, with many photo stops, just before the sun went down!
Try to take your time when doing this special wine route, not just to enjoy the views, but also to visit some of the sites along the way - see later. The Côte Vermeille is truly special - you don’t want to rush it!
Visit to Les Clos de Paulilles wine estate
With origins dating back to the 1800s and a reputation for producing some of the finest Collioure and Banyuls wines, the Les Clos de Paulilles estate on the Côte Vermeille was purchased in 2012 by Domaine de Cazes, the largest biodynamic certified winery in all of France. The Domaine de Cazes vineyards are also in the Roussillon wine region, north of Perpignan and their wines include AOP Côtes du Roussillon as well as AOP Rivesaltes and AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes vins doux naturels.
The Les Clos de Paulilles estate incorporates some 90 hectares of valleys and steep terraces, with 63 hectares covered in vines, situated in the beautiful Bay of Paulilles (l’Anse de Paulilles’), in between the pretty port of Collioure and the beach resort of Banyuls-sur-Mer.
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are grown here and they produce wines under the appellations, Banyuls, Banyuls Grand Cru and Collioure. In addition to selling wine, Les Clos de Paulilles also sells some wonderful Banyuls vinegar.
Our wine tasting at Les Clos de Paulilles
We enjoyed a lengthy wine tasting, incorporating both single varietal and cuvée wines from the two AOP Collioure ranges and each of the AOP Banyuls wines. See the full range of wines here.
We loved all of the wines and having walked to the estate around the coast from Collioure, we had to return by taxi to accommodate our purchases! We especially loved their rosé wine - one of the best rosés from the South of France we have ever tasted.
We had our wine tasting in the lovely wine shop at Les Clos de Paulilles which is open from 10am - 7pm and offers the opportunity to taste not just the range from Les Clos de Paulilles, but other wines from Domaine de Cazes.
Wine tourism at Les Clos de Paulilles
The restaurant & bar at Les Clos de Paulilles
Enjoying the outdoor space at Les Clos de Paulilles
One of the reasons we visited Les Clos de Paulilles, in addition to the quality and reputation of the wines, was the focus on wine tourism.
Vineyard tour
If you want to see more than just have a wine tasting, you can arrange a vineyard and estate tour in July/August on a Tuesday or Thursday.
Restaurant
Just next to the wine shop, you can enjoy a drink or a meal at the lovely restaurant - make sure you book in advance, because it’s very popular and weddings and events are often held here due to its stunning location! According to the website the restaurant is ‘a meeting place between the sea, the mountains and the vineyards’ - and it truly is! You can’t sit in many restaurants and enjoy a view of all of these!
The restaurant features local Catalan and Mediterranean dishes and we would highly recommend it! After your meal and of course a bottle of wine, you can wander down to the beautiful cove and relax on the beach or enjoy a dip in the Mediterranean - perfect!
Events & tours
See here for special offers, events and tours at Les Clos de Paulilles and Domaine de Cazes.
Apartment
If you want to arrange a special holiday and wine experience there is also an apartment on the estate, sleeping 4 people.
The lovely beach at Les Clos de Paulilles - source: Wine Keller
Where to find Les Clos de Paulilles
Les Clos de Paulilles - Baie de Paulilles, 66660 Port-Vendres, France
Other wineries to visit on the Côte Vermeille
Les Clos de Paulilles offers an exceptional opportunity to discover not just Banyuls and Collioure wines, but also the beautiful coastline that is the Côte Vermeille. However if you fancy visiting another winery in the area, here are some suggestions:
Domaine de la Rectorie in Banyuls-sur-Mer
Terre des Templiers - Banyuls-sur-Mer
Domaine Pietri-Géraud - Collioure. Participate in a guided tour and tasting!
Tips for visiting the Côte Vermeille
We visited the Côte Vermeille in early September which was a fabulous time to visit - still warm and sunny, but not uncomfortably hot. Everything was open, but there were no crowds - which can sometimes be an issue in the height of Summer here - in fact anywhere in the South of France! Allow yourself at least 3-4 days to discover the area and its wines!
Everywhere was very clean and very focused on protecting the environment, the beaches and the sea were spotless. Also we found the Catalan people really welcoming and friendly.
Getting to the Côte Vermeille
The Côte Vermeille and its Collioure and Banyuls vineyards lie some 30km south of Perpignan. You can fly into Perpignan-Rivesaltes airport, or there is a TGV rail link from Paris to Perpignan, which has regional connections to Collioure and locations along the coast. If you are driving, the coast is some 2.5 hours from Toulouse and 2 hours from Montpellier.
Where to stay on the Côte Vermeille
We based ourselves in Collioure and managed to book a fabulous AirBnB apartment just 5 minutes walk from the beach and town centre. Here are some other options for staying in Collioure.
We loved exploring Collioure with its history, culture and Catalan traditions, but equally central for the Côte Vermeille wine region is Banyuls-sur-Mer and Argelès-sur-Mer, which both have lovely large beaches - see later.
See more accommodation options in Collioure and in the wider area here.
Things to do in Collioure
Collioure is a dream destination for lovers of culture, tradition and gastronomy! A traditional Catalonian port and fishing village, which was once the centre of the anchovies industry, Collioure has an incredible history and medieval heritage. It’s not hard to understand why it’s known as the ‘pearl of the Côte Vermeille’ and why over the years many artists were drawn here, like Matisse, Derain and Picasso, attracted by the incredible light and its natural beauty and historic features.
Despite its beauty and attractions it retains its traditional charm and has been relatively unscathed by the less attractive side of tourism.
The sea, the mountains, the vineyards & Collioure
The beautiful port area with the Catalan boats
Discover Collioure’s special atmosphere
Take time to wander through the small lanes and alleys and soak up the atmosphere. There are 2 distinct areas, one around the main beach - Plage de Port d’Avall, but wander round the base of the Château Royal and you get to another quite lively area (day and evening) round by the Port Avall and another popular beach, Plage Boramar. There is a network of lovely alleys with shops and restaurants here.
Visit the Port Avall
Wander round the Port area or better still stay a while and enjoy a drink or a meal and enjoy the comings and goings, watch the fishermen at work and enjoy the spectacle of the traditional Catalan boats. You can do various boat trips from here to discover the coastline around Collioure and the wider Côte Vermeille - investigate options here.
Visit the monuments
Take time to visit the Château Royal , the 13th century castle which dominates the town.
Visit Fort Saint Elme, a 16th century military fort which overlooks Collioure. Explore its history but also enjoy its magnificent views over Collioure and the coast. This is a spectacular viewpoint!
Immerse yourself in some Art
Visit the Museum of Modern Art, the Maison du Fauvisme or just stroll around the Port Avall to see local artists at work.
Put your walking boots on!
Collioure provides a great base to enjoy some breathtaking walks where you can enjoy the sea views, the mountains and the vineyards. We walked from Collioure round the coast, through Port-Vendres and round to the Bay of Paulilles - it was a real highlight for us!
Collioure by night
If possible, Collioure becomes even more special by night! Bathed in a beautiful soft glow, take time to wander the streets, walk around the Port and around the main beach in the direction of Port-Vendres. There are lots of lovely bars and restaurants either nestled away in vibrant and colourful alleys or spread out right by the lapping waves of the Mediterranean - it really is unique.
Where to eat in Collioure
There are lots of choices to enjoy not only wonderful Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine, but also to enjoy incredible views and settings.
We followed local advice for 2 amazing restaurants and dining experiences and would only encourage you to try them too!
Le Neptune which offers amazing views (and sunsets) from its commanding position on the cliff side overlooking the bay and the Château. The food was incredible too! It was quite pricey but worth it for the setting and the dining experience!
El Capillo was a very different dining experience - a tiny restaurant in the alleyways behind the Port specialising in traditional Catalan dishes, very much like Spanish tapas but larger portions! We were blown away by the quality and variety of all of the dishes we tasted - one of our favourite meals, ever!
You need to book in advance for these 2 restaurants, as is probably the advice for all restaurants in Collioure - it really is a gourmet dining experience! See here for some more recommended restaurants and more information about Catalan specialities!
Other places to see and visit on the Côte Vermeille
Argelès-sur-Mer - a seaside resort with 7km of excellent sandy beaches, a port and 2 nature reserves - a great holiday destination.
Port-Vendres - a marina, commercial port and typically Catalan fishing port - surrounded by lovely bays and vineyards. Great place to stop for a meal and watch the fishing boats come in.
Bay of Paulilles - (‘Anse de Paulilles’) - a classified tourist site and protected nature park. At the foot of the Albères mountains with beautiful beaches and sandy coves. A paradise for walkers and nature lovers.
Banyuls-sur-Mer - a lovely wide beach and thriving port and marina. Lots going on - just sit and sip a cool, refreshing drink and watch the world go by. Overlooked by the mountains and terraces of vineyards. Great for walkers and for those who just enjoy wandering through the pretty streets. Famous for being the former home of French sculptor, Aristide Maillol.
Cerbère - the last village before the Spanish border. Known for its art-deco buildings and ‘Réserve Marine’, where you can experience underwater life in a protected, natural environment. Again a typical Catalan village and great holiday destination.
Enjoying a drink on the Côte Vermeille
The marina at Banyuls-sur-Mer
Conclusion and personal highlights
Well I think the above photos says it all really! We absolutely fell in love with the Côte Vermeille in this very special part of France. The vineyards here thrive, despite the great heat and the wines were superb. We will definitely be back!
Highlights? It’s hard to choose but probably the Côte Vermeille Wine Route travelling along the D86 and our hike from Collioure to Les Clos de Paulilles through the vineyards and along the coast - just spectacular! Exploring Collioure was also magical - it’s a very special place!
