Exploring the Pic St Loup wine region in Eastern Languedoc
The beautiful Pic St Loup wine region, Eastern Languedoc - Source: Wine Keller
Discover the Pic Saint Loup wine region, Pic St Loup wine and enjoy a wonderful overnight stay in a typical French Auberge
Whilst on a recent French road trip and catching up with a friend in Montpellier, we decided to spend a couple of days getting to know France’s famous Languedoc wine region better and in particular exploring the Eastern Languedoc. We were keen to discover one of Languedoc’s newer wine appellations, Pic St Loup, not just Pic Saint Loup wine, but the sights and landscapes of this beautiful part of south-west France.
Our friend recommended we stay overnight at ‘L’Auberge du Cèdre’ in the heart of the Pic St Loup vineyards, which turned out to be a real delight!
During this trip, we also visited the neighbouring wine region, Terrasses du Larzac - and a very special winery and wine tourism destination - Château de Jonquières. Read about that here.
Read on to see what we discovered in Pic St Loup!
The Languedoc wine region - Eastern Languedoc
Southern France’s ‘Languedoc-Roussillon’ wine region is the largest and most varied wine region in France and Languedoc Rousillon wines include a huge range of styles. The Eastern Languedoc sub-region covers the département of Hérault and stretches from close to the Spanish border in the west near Béziers, to Nîmes in the East, where it borders with the Rhône Valley wine region.
This sub region is also very varied. In general it is warmer and drier than the Western Languedoc, however, different micro-climates exist across the region, affecting the style of the different wines produced.
The main city in the Eastern Languedoc is Montpellier, a fast-growing metropolis some 10km from the Mediterranean and today France’s eighth largest city. Vines compete with the demand for real-estate in this popular part of south-west France, where some of the best beaches in Languedoc are to be found and popular seaside resorts such as Sète, la Grande Motte and Cap d’Agde.
Pic St Loup vineyards - Source: Wine Keller
Eastern Languedoc wines and appellations
The regional ‘Languedoc’ appellation dominates wine production, consisting of mostly red wines and Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache blends. Many producers choose however to produce wines outside of this appellation or the notable others listed below, giving them more flexibility. Instead they choose to produce varietal wines under the IGP classification, or Pays d’Oc (covering the broader Languedoc-Roussillon area) or simply, Vins de France.
The other important Eastern Languedoc appellations include:
Faugères in the extreme west where the lack of soil (schist, sand and limestone) produces low yields of highly distinctive red, rosé and white wines;
Picpoul de Pinet, close to the coast, near Sète, which produces very popular white wines, made from the lemon-scented, old southern France grape variety, Picpoul, which thrives in the sandy soils here;
Terrasses du Larzac, in the northern part of Eastern Languedoc, a fairly new appellation producing low yields, as with Faugères, from the mixed limestone/clay/shingle soils;
Pic St Loup, another fairly new appellation named after the dramatic rock formation in the area, producing some really elegant and refined wines, resulting from a slightly cooler and wetter climate.
Eastern Languedoc, although dominated by red wines, is producing increasingly noteworthy white wines, through blending a variety of grapes including Grenache blanc, Clairette, Picpoul, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Viognier and Vermentino (also known as Rolle).
Pic Saint Loup wine
The Pic St Loup appellation forms part of the Languedoc wine region and denotes wines produced between Montpellier and the Cévennes mountains, stretching 25 km north to south and 10 km west to east. The appellation was formally approved in early 2017 and many believe Pic Saint Loup wines to be future stars of Languedoc. So why is this?
Pic Saint Loup wine is often compared to Southern Rhône red wine, which is understandable considering the proximity to the Rhône Valley wine region, however there are subtle differences in climate and terroir which make Pic Saint Loup wine quite distinct.
Situated up from the coastal plain, Pic St Loup in the Languedoc wine region enjoys more of a continental than a maritime climate, with cold winters, warm summers and a higher level of rainfall. In addition, the predominant soil type is limestone. These two factors mean that red wines from Pic St Loup tend to be more elegant in style than wines from the Southern Rhône Valley.
At present, Pic St Loup is only an appellation for red and rosé wines, made predominantly from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes. Some Carignan and Cinsault are also grown, but are limited to making up less than 10% of a Pic St Loup wine.
Overall Pic St Loup wines are typified by elegance and balance. They tend to be more perfumed, with lots of colour, complexity and spicy, meaty flavours.
See here for more about the Pic Saint Loup appellation.
Montagne de Pic St Loup
The Pic St Loup wine region is made up largely of Jurassic limestone and garrigue-like scrubland and is dominated by two facing, distinctive limestone peaks - the Montagne de Pic St Loup, which towers over the region at 658 metres (2,150ft) and the Montagne de l’Hortus, a kilometre-long limestone ridge.
Montagne de Pic St-Loup on the left & Montagne de l’Hortus - Source: Wine Keller
The Pic St Loup vineyards are planted at different elevations - and therefore in different micro-climates - around these impressive rock formations, which enables wine producers to produce different styles of wines. They are able to produce wines based on Mourvèdre and Grenache grapes which require lots of heat and sun, as well as wines made from Syrah grapes which typically require a cooler climate to flourish.
Pic St Loup - a playground for lovers of the outdoors!
This is a region for adrenaline junkies and those who love outdoor pursuits, especially walking, hiking and cycling! There’s something for everyone here and for all levels of ability and experience.
See here for ideas on the various activities on offer to you in this beautiful part of the world as well as the many villages you can explore!
Our overnight stay in a French Auberge - ‘L’Auberge du Cèdre’
The French word ‘Auberge’ means ‘inn’ in English, or ‘a house providing food and lodging for travellers’. ‘Cèdre’ means ‘cedar tree’.
As we drove through the stunning rural countryside and vineyards in the Pic St Loup wine region, we were excited to arrive and explore our accommodation for the night! And we weren’t disappointed!
According to the website, Auberge du Cèdre ‘is a unique place, offering all the amenities of a hotel & restaurant: a warm welcome, an attentive ear and commitment to service, plus the family atmosphere of a guest house, right at the heart of the rich vineyards of the Pic St Loup in Hérault Languedoc’.
Our first impression as we drove up the Auberge du Cèdre was that it does indeed lie right at the heart of the beautiful Pic St Loup vineyards, in the small commune of Lauret. On arrival the promised ‘warm welcome’ was also delivered. We felt like we had entered a friend’s home, not a hotel and what struck us was the friendliness of the staff to each other, as well as the guests. What a welcome after a long drive.
More about l’Auberge du Cèdre
The Auberge du Cèdre opened its doors in 1988 and is owned and managed by a diverse group of people who all share the same desire to share with others the beautiful house and parkland, formerly part of a wine estate, which you can visit - more on this later! All profits are shared amongst the group or reinvested and this probably helps to explain the relaxed, service-focused atmosphere at the Auberge du Cèdre. The group is also passionate about sustainability, looking after nature, encouraging the arts and giving back to the community.
Amenities
There are 20 guest rooms in the beautiful house set amongst lovely parkland, which you can freely explore and children can play in. In addition there is a larger suite for up to 6 people and even 2 vintage guest caravans! There is a quiet room where you can relax, a well-stocked library and a lovely terrace where you can chill with a drink. In addition there is an outdoor swimming pool and a pétanque ground.
L’Auberge du Cèdre restaurant
What really took us by surprise was the restaurant. We didn’t realise that it was extremely popular, not just with guests but with visitors to the area and locals alike. The atmosphere was very relaxed and we were really impressed by the menu and the wine list, which featured lots of local wines. Everything we ate was beautifully fresh, locally sourced, beautifully presented and totally delicious! As were all of the wines! We let our waiter steer our choice of wines to accompany our food selections and we weren’t disappointed!
Breakfast was a similar story - excellent food, lovingly prepared and all fresh and locally produced.
If you want to spend an evening or a couple of days to get away from everything, to totally relax in stunning countryside, then please visit l’Auberge du Cèdre! Don’t expect mod cons, including a TV in your room, this is a different kind of luxury - peace, a slower pace, back to nature, quality in the simple things in life….
We paid about 120 euros for a double room with a bathroom for the 1 night, including breakfast. Not cheap, but it was in high season and we felt it was good value considering the amenities and the wonderfully relaxing atmosphere and superb service. When travelling we like to mix this type of accommodation experience with your typical budget hotel accommodation so it was also a treat!
We considered our dinner and the wine really excellent value for money - we can’t recommend highly enough!
Château de Cazeneuve winery
Now, it would be remiss of us not to include the fact that directly opposite the Auberge du Cèdre, stands a winery - Château de Cazeneuve.
Château de Cazeneuve was acquired in 1987 by André Leenhardt and today the second generation of the family is involved in running the estate. It is now rated as one of the top producers of organic Pic St Loup wines. The estate has been certified organic since 2010 and covers some 45 hectares of vineyards planted with all of the Pic St Loup red grape varieties: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. White wines are produced under the Languedoc appellation from Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino, and Viognier grapes.
Château de Cazeneuve produces a range of different wines, which are available across France and around the world.
Visiting Château de Cazeneuve
Château de Cazeneuve is open for tastings every Saturday without appointment, and Monday-Friday by appointment only.
Unfortunately when we stayed at the Auberge, the winery was closed for a week as the family was away relaxing ahead of the annual harvest. We were very disappointed but it gives us the ideal excuse to go back again!
Where to find l’Auberge du Cèdre and Château de Cazeneuve.
Other Pic St Loup wineries
Other notable wineries to visit in Pic St Loup include:
See here for more information about Pic Saint Loup vineyards.
Additional tips and information for visiting Eastern Languedoc
Getting to the Languedoc wine region and Eastern Languedoc
Eastern Languedoc is well served in terms of transportation links. TGV trains link Montpellier with Paris, via Lyon and there are airports at Béziers, Nimes, Montpellier, Carcassonne and Perpignan.
There are excellent motorway links north to south via Lyon and the A7 or further towards the west - and a route we prefer, due to the wonderful scenery and less crowded roads - via Orléans, Bourges and Clermont-Ferrand and the A75 leading you directly to Montpellier.
Things to see in Montpellier
The main city in Eastern Languedoc is Montpellier - a thriving modern city in the Hérault, with a historic centre. There’s lots to do in Montpellier for the wine tourist and it’s really well located, with great transport links and lots of wineries to visit nearby!
It also has its own fabulous wine and food scene to enjoy, with an abundance of places to enjoy wonderful food and sample the Languedoc wines of course!
Head to the heart of Montpellier and its famous Place de la Comédie - one of the largest pedestrian precincts in Europe, dominated by the Opéra Comédie. Here you can also pick up your Montpellier City Card, available in 24h, 48h, or 72h options, at the tourism office.
Explore the bustling medieval streets and alleyways in the historic centre, perhaps enjoy some retail therapy as well as take in some of Montpellier’s art scene. Head to the Musée Fabre, a well-curated art museum founded by Montpellier-based painter François-Xavier Fabre back in 1825.
Place de la Comédie Montpellier
The Arc de Triomphe & old town - Monpellier
Also make sure to visit the city’s Arc de Triomphe, or Porte du Peyrou and walk through to the Promenade du Peyrou for breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding areas. With beautiful beaches just 10km outside of the city, you can combine a tour of Montpellier with a swim in the Mediterranean too, which can’t be bad!
Visit the official Montpellier tourism website for lots more ideas and information about where to visit, stay and eat!
The Eastern Languedoc coast - some of the best beaches in Languedoc
In addition to exploring the many wineries of Eastern Languedoc, make time to explore its beaches, seaside marinas and small Mediterranean ports. There are miles of sandy beaches, which can get crowded in the popular summer months, but they are certainly worth visiting!
Down in the far west of the region is one of the main resorts, Cap d'Agde, well known for its large naturist beaches, and close to the lovely town of Agde. The popular seaside resort of La Grande-Motte is at the eastern end of the coastal region, a resort designed in the 1970's and pretty much unchanged since. Here you can visit the resort of Palavas-les-Flots, one of the most visited seaside resorts in the region.
The old port, Sète
Etang de Thau beaches
Visit the historic fishing port of Sète
We would really recommend you visit the historic fishing and trading port of Sète. It is the largest fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast and is also a vibrant place to visit and explore! The town is set between the Mediterranean and a lagoon called the Etang de Thau and consists of two parts - the low town, with the port, and criss-crossed by canals and bridges; and the high town on Mont St Clair. In the low town, the harbour front houses, canals and the fishing activity itself are the main attractions, along with the lovely 'village within a town' - the Pointe Courte sector. Sète is known locally as the ‘Venice of Languedoc’ and the months of June-August are a great time to visit when the town stages its 'Joutes de Sète' a jousting tournament from boats rather than horseback.
12 km of beaches stretch west of Sète - a thin strip of sand separating the sea from the Thau lagoon - well worth visiting!
Explore the Cévennes Mountains
North of Pic St Loup, it’s worth spending time to visit the Cévennes National Park, a vast area of beautiful, unspoiled, rural France. The largest part of the park falls in the Languedoc-Rousillon region - in the departments of Lozère and Gard - and there are several mountains and high plateaus including Mont Lozère, Mont Aigoual and the Causse Méjean.
The Cévennes National Park
The Gorges du Tarn
Discover the Gorges du Tarn
Also north of Eastern Languedoc and reached via the A75 motorway are the famous Gorges du Tarn. Following the course of the Tarn River for 50 kilometres, the Tarn Gorges are among the deepest gorges to be found anywhere in Europe. They are also extremely picturesque - one of the most scenic parts of France - and offer several great vantage points from where to enjoy their beauty.
Visit Nîmes
In the far east of the eastern Languedoc lies the historic Roman city of Nîmes, capital city of the Gard department and home to the finest Roman remains in France. Visit the famous ‘arène de Nîmes’ - the best conserved Roman amphitheatre in the world and although 2000 years old, still used for events today. This is one of three large Roman amphitheatres in the south of France.
Also a must to see in Nîmes, is Maison Carrée, the best preserved Roman temple anywhere in the world. Take time to explore this beautiful city’s incredible history and wander through its lovely old town and ancient city centre.
Learn more about visiting the Herault department and Languedoc-Roussillon.
The Ampitheatre in Nîmes
The Maison Carrée in Nîmes
Conclusion
This was our first trip to the Pic St Loup wine region in Languedoc Roussillon and it left us with a wonderful impression - stunning scenery, superb wines, great hospitality. It’s a beautiful wine region and we can definitely recommend spending some time there - we will be going back that’s for sure! We love south-west France and the Languedoc and this is a beautiful part of it!
