Written by Robert Giorgione, a guest writer for Winekeller, a wine expert and award-winning sommelier and a wine writer and author of the book series ‘An Epicurean Odyssey’

*Beautiful Waipara Valley, North Canterbury*

As mentioned earlier, I find the best thing about travelling to a foreign country is giving yourself a reason to return by not trying to cram everything all in one go. At least when you return you will have a genuine opportunity to visit unfamiliar places, meet some more new people and enjoy some new experiences.

I have visited Christchurch now five times and on each occasion my experiences have just got better and better. In fact, in 2009 (before the earthquakes) I was seriously considering living there. Not only is Christchurch a beautiful city, well-situated half-way down the East Coast between Blenheim and Dunedin on New Zealand’s South Island and within easy distance of the Southern Alps, but I have connections with friends and family there, too. So, with my final part of our journey around New Zealand’s wine regions, I’m finishing off with my favourite: North Canterbury and Waipara.

Of course, the events of two terrible earthquakes in 2010 and 2011 were dramatically life-changing for not only the city, but also the wider Canterbury region. Christchurch has been in a process of rebuilding itself back to its former glory and is now one of the most exciting and transformative cities to visit in New Zealand.

The Waipara wine region and Waipara wines

As for wine tourism, the tiny Waipara region in North Canterbury, just an hour’s drive north of the city, is possibly one of the most under-appreciated in the whole of New Zealand. Waipara (which means ‘Muddy Water’ in Māori) contains a small handful of family-owned wineries, some of which, especially with regards to Riesling and Pinot Noir, are the best the country can offer, producing some of the best New Zealand wines. The region includes some of my all-time favourite Kiwi vineyards, too - here is my suggested Waipara wine tour.

My suggestions are Pegasus Bay; Mountford Estate; Muddy Water; Black Estate; Greystone, and Tongue in Groove, among others. However, on a personal note what makes this region and city my favourite of all are its people. Christchurch always manages to evoke fond memories of when I lived in Oxford.

Pegasus Bay Winery

Pegasus Bay Winery has been owned and run by the pioneering Donaldson family since the late-1970s, where they have been seriously involved in wine and grape growing in the Waipara Valley. They are immensely proud that all the members of the family, including partners, are involved in the business, which also includes hospitality at the deli operation (formerly the Pegasus Bay winery restaurant), and cellar door tasting room. Alfresco dining is also available in nice weather, and you are invited to enjoy your little slice of paradise outside in the garden.

Mountford Estate Winery

Established in 1991, Mountford Estate is a beautiful boutique vineyard located in Waipara that is well worth discovering. Owing to the suitable limestone-rich terroir and local microclimate, they have forged a fine reputation for delicious aromatic whites, including Riesling, and beautifully textured Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Black Estate Winery

Black Estate is also one of my personal favourites and where Nicholas Brown and Pen Naish and family craft characterful wines sourced from their three organic vineyards using biodynamic winegrowing practices. Black Estate is also home to a lovely winery restaurant and cellar door, where you can sample tasty morsels and delicious homegrown local produce alongside their own wines. The B & B at Black Estate is a wonderful place to stay with amazing views over the Home Vineyard and the Waipara Valley, and beyond. I have been a big fan of Pen and Nick who I first met when I visited them back in 2009, after spending the day in Waipara with legendary New Zealand winemaker, Daniel Schuster.

Tongue in Groove Winery

Tongue in Groove is a collaboration between six friends, led by passionate organic food and drink specialist Angela Clifford and Lynette Hudson (former winemaker at Pegasus Bay). The combination is a pretty good one, especially when you grow on some of the most exciting Pinot Noir and Riesling sites in New Zealand. Not only do I love the integrity and quality of their wines, which are produced using organic and biodynamic winegrowing practices, but also admire their quirky approach and genuine sense of fun in whatever they do. Many years of friendship and a love of wine and food brings the members of Tongue in Groove all together, all making valuable contributions to the business.

Meanwhile, at Waikari and Hawarden there are a couple of 5-star boutique wineries that are definitely ‘must-visits’. Bell Hill (Marcel Giesen) and Pyramid Valley (Mike and Claudia Weersing) have achieved a mini cult status and produce a small, yet excellent selection of wines. Although Mike Weersing has now sadly passed, you’ll be guaranteed a warm welcome at Pyramid Valley when you visit. Both vineyards are especially highly regarded for their Pinot Noirs, and I am rather fond of the Bell Hill Chardonnay and Pyramid Valley Pinot Blanc too. Please note that you will need to make an appointment should you wish to visit them. It is probably advisable not to just ‘turn up unannounced’ at the vineyard like I did at Dry River in Martinborough back in the day on a quiet Sunday morning in May 2002.

Christchurch New Zealand points of interest

New Zealand’s adventure capital, Christchurch, combines British heritage with sharp architecture, a thriving street-art scene and vibrant riverside nightlife. Stretching along Oxford Terrace and overlooking the leafy banks of the river Avon this slick new development is Christchurch’s answer to London’s arty South Bank, with funky-angled buildings and an indie vibe to its brew bars and restaurants. The city even re-routed its heritage tramline to rattle along it, so you can hop off to join after-work thirtysomethings sipping their way through something refreshing.

Christchurch has always had a snappy urban art scene, but especially so after international and local artists splashed the city with colour and messages of hope following the earthquakes. The first thing you’ll notice in the city’s central plaza (formerly known as Cathedral Square), apart from the Chalice sculpture, is its fenced-off centrepiece, the cathedral itself, which was brutally damaged in the 2011 earthquake. When I re-visited Christchurch in 2014 and spent around a week there it was an extremely cathartic experience having seen this iconic building in its former glory. It’s a poignant reminder both of the event and the admirable resilience of the locals, who turn up here in droves every Friday for the food market, which fills the square with food trucks, street performers and buskers. There are certainly many things to see and do in Christchurch, and like other cities, such as Auckland, Wellington, and Queenstown, you can easily use the city as a base from which to further explore the beautiful Canterbury region.

Exploring around Christchurch

As for day trips from Christchurch when you feel like exploring the surrounding area, there are plenty of opportunities. For instance, stretching to the north you have the picturesque coastline of Pegasus Bay - with its wonderful beaches, and opportunities for whale and dolphin watching - although they can get a little bit windswept. There are fabulous views of Christchurch and the coast from the gondola on top of the hills near Sumner. On a good day, you can even see the snow-capped mountains of the Southern Alps in the distance.

Travelling to the coastal bays and inlets of Lyttelton, with its harbourside activities and a local farmers market is an excellent idea at the weekend.

*Akaroa Fish and Chips, Akaroa, Banks Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand © Robert Giorgione 2009*

A little bit further south, you come to Banks Peninsula, which encompasses two harbours and many coves and inlets. Here, you discover quaint little places such as Duvauchelle and Akaroa, both of which have tiny French communities that go back to the 1830s and ‘40s, when the area was intended for settlement by French colonists, who were after their little piece of New Zealand from the British and indigenous Māori tribes. Today Akaroa is a popular holiday destination and has retained many French influences including its nineteenth-century buildings. For me, Akaroa will always evoke fond memories and for enjoying the best fish and chips on its historic wharf with family and friends.

Located in Duvauchelle, Barrys Bay Cheese Farm is a definite must-visit. When Barrys Bay Cheese produced its first cheddar in 1895, it was just one of nine small, family-owned dairy cooperatives dotted around Banks Peninsula. Today, a large viewing window has been installed between the shop and the factory, offering visitors a glimpse into the wonderful world of cheese making and a piece of New Zealand’s local dairy history. The modern-day artisan cheesemongers premises were established in the 1950s, and continues to produce top-notch cheeses, preserving the old-fashioned and traditional cheesemaking techniques and proving that great taste comes with age.

Conclusion

To conclude, although it maybe the tip of the wine tourism iceberg, I sincerely hope that I have shown you a positive snapshot of New Zealand, and its potential for producing truly world-class wines (and the people behind them) that may inspire you to discover them for yourselves.

Award-winning sommelier, Robert Giorgione’s latest book “Roving Sommelier’s Bucket List of New Zealand Wines” (2023 Edition) is now available. To buy your copy, please go to http://www.anepicureanodyssey.com

More about Robert Giorgione:

Award-winning sommelier Robert Giorgione has been in the hospitality and retail industry for more than 35 years, including 17 years of experience in London where he worked as wine buyer and head sommelier at the iconic Oxo Tower Restaurant on the South Bank, the prestigious Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, Pierre Koffmann’s classic French Three Michelin-starred La Tante Claire and D & D London at One Michelin-starred Orrery Restaurant in Marylebone, and won many prestigious awards for his wine lists and sommelier skills.

Most recently, Robert worked as sommelier at the famous Park House Restaurant, Wine Bar and Private Rooms in Cardiff, where he massively contributed to the establishment’s successful reputation for fine-dining and sommelier service and its award-winning wine list.

Now relocated to beautiful South Wales, Robert owns and runs ‘Roving Sommelier Wines’ – an independent wine merchant and online shop, which stocks some of the finest affordable premium wines from around the world, and Robert works enthusiastically to guide wine lovers and consumers towards something that’s right both for palate and pocket. Roving Sommelier loves authentic wines that are made with passion and integrity. We also prefer wines that have a genuine sense of place and express their grape and region. Many of our artisan wines have been produced using organic, natural and/or biodynamic wine making techniques.

We deliver to UK addresses (mainland locations only, and excluding any islands such as Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Orkney Islands, Shetland Islands, Scottish Hebrides and other islands, and Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland).

Robert also has years of experience as a chef and loves hosting wine tastings and events, including food and drink matching masterclasses (he has a particular passion for artisan cheese and fine chocolate), and can capably act as a guest speaker on many topics regarding all types of food and drink.

In addition to this Robert has many years of experience as a wine consultant for a variety of private and corporate clients, (New Zealand Wine Growers, Wine Chap, Naked Wines, and Les Caves de Pyrene, amongst many others), and has been a wine judge for many prestigious international wine awards and competitions (his areas of experience include New Zealand, Regional Italy, Spain, and South-West France). In fact, the South-West of France, and in particular the region of Roussillon has a special place in Robert’s heart, as he has a real fondness for the local Vin Doux Naturel wines that pair extremely well with desserts and chocolate. In October 2012, while working with William Curley, Robert won the UK Final of the Roussillon Dessert Competition alongside pastry chef Sarah Frankland. The sommelier and chef pâtissier team went on to represent the UK in the European Final held in Perpignan in April 2013 and won the overall title of European Champions, beating the crème de la crème of Belgium, Holland, Germany, and Denmark. An achievement and experience that Robert is genuinely proud of.

Robert’s talents and experience also extends to writing, blogging, and between 2010 and 2013 he produced 275 roving sommelier video blogs on his Roving Sommelier TV You Tube channel.

Robert’s latest book “Roving Sommelier’s Bucket List of New Zealand Wines” (2023 Edition) is now available. To buy your copy, please go to http://www.anepicureanodyssey.com

Discover the Waipara wine region - North Canterbury